Uro Tail Problem - Page 2

wreckwriter · #21 (**permalink**) 04-20-2006, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CruiserMaiden

Wreck - I just got my uro about two weeks ago and I was feeding him spring mix but I joined a uro forum and everybody there jumped my case about how I needed to take all the spinach out of it, and to stop feeding him that and to offer escrole, endive, alfalfa sprouts and dandelion greens. They also suggested a mix of vegetable proteins to be offered once a week or so with green and red lentils, green and yellow split peas, sesame seeds, wheat berry and millet. Any of that sound bad? any of that sound good? I'm trying to get his diet right, I've got my temps stable (now if only he would quit running off with the thermometer sensor...)

All those things are fine but spring mix has worked for us too. Mixed baby greens is better though. I don't believe the kind we get contains spinach (spinach is not recommended). There's a lot of debate on best food as well as best substrate but everyone agrees that a variety should be offered.

We've had only 4 uros, 3 malis and an Egyptian, so I'm far from the greatest expert available but we've been keeping them for about 6 years now with reasonable success. They're very specialized animals and not many people know how to care for them properly. The best sources I've found are the experienced people on the 2 yahoo groups. The best care sheet info, in my opinion, can be found here: http://www.deerfernfarms.com/Uromastyx_index.htm

VoodooChile · #22 (**permalink**) 04-20-2006, 12:55 PM

Im glad someone could help...Now I know who to hit up next time we get a Uro question

wreckwriter · #23 (**permalink**) 04-20-2006, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The_Master_Of_Dance_Blaze

I'll try to get some decent pictures of it... Give me a few minutes...

The main things I'm concerned about for your lizard are temps (not high enough), humidity (too much), and UVB (not enough due to light too far from lizard and/or plastic cover on bulb). The tail problem is almost certainly just a symptom of a bigger environmental lack. Get back to us with some housing specifics and we'll help you get sorted out.

wreckwriter · #24 (**permalink**) 04-20-2006, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amercnwmn

Im glad someone could help...Now I know who to hit up next time we get a Uro question

Like I said, I generally refer to the real experts. I help when I can but I'm not the guy with all the answers on these exotic beasts.

The_Master_Of_Dance_Blaze · #25 (**permalink**) 04-20-2006, 09:37 PM

Alrighty... I put a thremometer (temporarily of course) on his basking spot, and the ground... The ground is pretty much all the same temp, but in the winter we have a heating pad underneath the tank. (Is this okay?) Actually with the humidity, we can't seem to get it above 5 right now... And I broke into my savings to buy the birdseed, and I have enough (thank goodness!) And I'm pretty sure I asked you about this before, but do you think a 55 gallon is too big for him? He has 2 hiding spots, one on both sides.

I'll get the measurements, but I have to get the birdseed tomarrow. My mother picked up the dole salad mix today, with some endive and escrole. Every time we put his vitamins on it though, he gets fustraited and buries it... Or sleeps on it.. Could that be a problem?

wreckwriter · #26 (**permalink**) 04-20-2006, 09:56 PM

Don't worry about low humidity. Its high humidity that gets them. 50% is absolute max, a lot lower is better.

You could skip the uro dust/vitamins for a week or 2, certainly don't use it daily, maybe once a week. Very little too, its easy to get too much and they won't eat it. They're seriously picky.

55 gallon is pretty big but I'm not one of those who thinks all herps hate larger cages. The main issue is that with a 55 the light is far away from the beast. A platform of some sort to let it get 8 to 10 inches from the UVB light would be good. Be sure its stable.

Still need to know temps. If the only light you have is the UVB its not going to be warm enough. The heating pad won't hurt but they generally get heat from a light above warming the basking spot. Basking spot should be 120 F. Cool end of cage should be a good deal less, 80-90 or so. No need for a hide on basking side.

Also still need the UVB number on your lamp, should be 8.0 or something similar. How old is it? Bulbs in pet store quality UVB lights should be changed every 6 months.

VoodooChile · #27 (**permalink**) 04-20-2006, 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wreckwriter

55 gallon is pretty big but I'm not one of those who thinks all herps hate larger cages. The main issue is that with a 55 the light is far away from the beast. A platform of some sort to let it get 8 to 10 inches from the UVB light would be good. Be sure its stable.

OOH I think I can actually help here..
I went to a friends house and picked up some nice flat brown stone and bleached them, rinsed them REALLY well, and then I stacked them nicely in my Water dragons tank under his basking lamp.. I also have the UVA/B lamp INSIDE the cage for 12 hours a day..I will have to improv something different when he gets bigger.
If the UVA/B is on top of the screen, unless its the wider screen, it wont filter properly...Doesnt filter hardly at all thru the glass..
Just ask Nicole..She has a site on all the UVA UVB filtering thru certain substances..
Anyways you can place the rock stacks anywhere,
That way he can crawl up to what ever level of heat he wants..
I have some pics of it..As you can see, he really uses it..LOL

wreckwriter · #28 (**permalink**) 04-20-2006, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amercnwmn

OOH I think I can actually help here..
I went to a friends house and picked up some nice flat brown stone and bleached them, rinsed them REALLY well, and then I stacked them nicely in my Water dragons tank under his basking lamp.. I also have the UVA/B lamp INSIDE the cage for 12 hours a day..I will have to improv something different when he gets bigger.
If the UVA/B is on top of the screen, unless its the wider screen, it wont filter properly...Doesnt filter hardly at all thru the glass..
Just ask Nicole..She has a site on all the UVA UVB filtering thru certain substances..
Anyways you can place the rock stacks anywhere,
That way he can crawl up to what ever level of heat he wants..
I have some pics of it..As you can see, he really uses it..LOL

Yea, that's a good method but you have to be certain the stack is stable, glue or something is best. The heavier the beast, the more critical stability is.

Right, narrow screen filters UVB, glass or plastic blocks it entirely. That's why I asked about it earlier. Some pet shop UVB fixtures have a plastic panel over the bulb, no doubt for legal reasons involving burned fingers. If you read the fine print in the directions it may tell you to remove it for full UVB exposure. If its got a plastic panel over the bulb the panel MUST be removed or the beast is getting no UVB.

The best UVB come from Mercury vapor lamps such as reptileUV.com but they're a bit pricey so I think its not going to happen in this case.

VoodooChile · #29 (**permalink**) 04-20-2006, 10:43 PM

I have a question...WalMart has what they advertise as FULL SPECTRUM Sunlamps they have a 5.0 I believe..not sure about an 8.0 though.
I just saw them there and wondered if they were the same as the one I bought at PetCo for $30. I will see if I can find a link to them..

wreckwriter · #30 (**permalink**) 04-20-2006, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by amercnwmn

I have a question...WalMart has what they advertise as FULL SPECTRUM Sunlamps they have a 5.0 I believe..not sure about an 8.0 though.
I just saw them there and wondered if they were the same as the one I bought at PetCo for $30. I will see if I can find a link to them..

Advertisement