Freaking Out!!!!!

rustytotten · #1 (**permalink**) 10-06-2005, 12:03 AM

When I bought my tegu ( about 8 months ago) they warned me that they have no nerve endings in their stomach and will eat until they throw up if you let them. Considering I bought him from a pet store, I don't usualy pay attention to a lot of the advice they offer, because, lets face it, pet stores are more interested in your cash than your pets well being. Anyway, I boiled him an egg and chopped it up for him for a treat, and of course he gobbled it back like the little bottomless pit he is! Then, a little while later, he threw it up. He seems ok, very lively and alert as usual, but I'm still wiggin out a bit, has anyone else seen this happen, or is there something wrong with Puff!?!? Please, if you have any info I would be greatful, as I love the little guy a lot.

rustytotten · #2 (**permalink**) 10-06-2005, 12:16 AM

Thanks...I'm just worried about him, but the vomit was just egg, so I've got my fingers crossed.

NicoleRussell · #3 (**permalink**) 10-06-2005, 12:16 AM

I have never seen a tegu eat until it threw up...and I have food available to them most of the time. I have never heard this from Bert at agama either.
Is this a BW argentine or a columbian?
Was the egg hot or not fresh? Had the animal basked that day? What time of day was it? And finally---what type of lighting heating does he have?

RioBravoReptiles · #4 (**permalink**) 10-06-2005, 12:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NicoleRussell

I have never seen a tegu eat until it threw up...and I have food available to them most of the time. I have never heard this from Bert at agama either.
Is this a BW argentine or a columbian?
Was the egg hot or not fresh? Had the animal basked that day? What time of day was it? And finally---what type of lighting heating does he have?

There you go again, asking all the pertinant questions..

Be good.

rustytotten · #5 (**permalink**) 10-06-2005, 12:34 AM

Ok, let me try to answer all....He is a columbianB&W, the egg was slighly warm,( but definately not hot), he seems to bask a lot, I've got a flat rock under the light, which sits on the screened part of the top. There is a human heating pad under one end that I put on low at night. His temps are ok, and the viv is set up according to all care sheets....so I'm at a loss. The only thing is that the eggs may be about a week or two old, (the humans here don't like em much

) could tha t be too old?

rustytotten · #6 (**permalink**) 10-06-2005, 12:35 AM

Sorry, missed one- it was about 6:30-7 at night.

wreckwriter · #7 (**permalink**) 10-06-2005, 12:41 AM

A rotten egg would make anyone puke.

Your pet store is "mistaken", as they so often are. My Colombian gets fed every other day, primarily San Diego Zoo diet. He's figured out his feeding schedule so he eats most of it the first day but leaves a bit for a snack on the second day. He's very much in control of his stomach.

We give eggs as a treat, but rarely, when we do we scramble them. Tell me you're not giving him eggs as his primary food?

Does he have UVB light? Has you had a fecal done lately?

NicoleRussell · #8 (**permalink**) 10-06-2005, 12:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rustytotten

Ok, let me try to answer all....He is a columbianB&W, the egg was slighly warm,( but definately not hot), he seems to bask a lot, I've got a flat rock under the light, which sits on the screened part of the top. There is a human heating pad under one end that I put on low at night. His temps are ok, and the viv is set up according to all care sheets....so I'm at a loss. The only thing is that the eggs may be about a week or two old, (the humans here don't like em much

) could tha t be too old?

Try and feed your tegu no later then 2pm....and even then it's more advisable to feed them as soon as they finish their first morning bask (at 8 months they are in different habits then adults). This gives their bodies time to warm up , become hungry and bask after eating to help with digestion. Never feed anything warm (after it has been cooked)...let the food be room temp before feeding or completely cooled. Look at the expiration date with the eggs and follow that as a lead.
As far as lighting ---what type of light is it? A tube or a MVB? Does it produce UVB or just heat and day cycle? Is the screen tight mesh (the way most animal aquarium screens are?) ? Then it will most likely filter out any uvb that you might be trying to give then animal.
Is the heating pad inside the cage or under it?
How large is the tegu?
(did you buy him from Bert or St. Pierres?)

NicoleRussell · #9 (**permalink**) 10-06-2005, 12:48 AM

I agree Tom--eggs are great as treats but should not be looked at as a staple at all.

rustytotten · #10 (**permalink**) 10-06-2005, 12:48 AM

No rodents and crix pretty much are the staple diet we feed him, supplemented with vitamins and dusting. We give him fruit (sometimes he'll eat it) and an egg maybe once amonth as a treat cause he really likes them, but I was told too much was not healthy. We had a fecal test done when we first got him (8 months ago roughly) and all was good. He does'nt have a uv light, as I read it was unnecessary if you supplement properly.

NicoleRussell · #11 (**permalink**) 10-06-2005, 12:52 AM

Tegus need UVB. Supplements are not to be played with in place of UVR....I have been raising my argentines on UVB since they were hatched and have seen others have problems as a result of attempting to use chemicals.
Buy a reptileUV bulb asap...reptileuv.com....and this will give the animal all the heat he needs during the day...at night you can use a mat or a CHE---but you DEFINATELY need UVB for your tegu.

rustytotten · #12 (**permalink**) 10-06-2005, 12:54 AM

The heating pad is outside the viv, underneath. The light is for heat and light only. Should I have UV? I read it was not needed, but will certainly get it tomorrow if it'll help!

wreckwriter · #13 (**permalink**) 10-06-2005, 12:54 AM

How often are you feeding and how much? Maybe post us an average week's day to day feeding schedule?

Supplimenting to replace UVB is not my favorite idea but it can work IF dosed correctly. Providing UVB is much easier and more certain.

If you're feeding rodents that have not been frozen, its time for another fecal I think.

rustytotten · #14 (**permalink**) 10-06-2005, 12:56 AM

Ok then, ignore last stupid post from me then. Will go out first thing tomorrw for uv. So do you think this was just because the eggs were not fresh?

wreckwriter · #15 (**permalink**) 10-06-2005, 12:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rustytotten

The heating pad is outside the viv, underneath. The light is for heat and light only. Should I have UV? I read it was not needed, but will certainly get it tomorrow if it'll help!

Can you give us temps? These need to be measured with something better than a stick-on. A heat lamp plus a pad is likely too warm but this depends on cage.

wreckwriter · #16 (**permalink**) 10-06-2005, 12:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rustytotten

Ok then, ignore last stupid post from me then. Will go out first thing tomorrw for uv. So do you think this was just because the eggs were not fresh?

that's my first thought.

rustytotten · #17 (**permalink**) 10-06-2005, 12:58 AM

All the rodents we feed are frozen. We feed him one every 2 days, with dusted crix every day except for days he gets mice. He has always eaten well and we havent had a single problem yet,,,,until this.

NicoleRussell · #18 (**permalink**) 10-06-2005, 12:59 AM

Tom even vets do not know the right amount for healthy species specfic delivery...it's a science. Bert at agama studied it and it's so difficult to determine it's a hazard for most people to try and do things this way.

wreckwriter · #19 (**permalink**) 10-06-2005, 01:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NicoleRussell

Tom even vets do not know the right amount for healthy species specfic delivery...it's a science. Bert at agama studied it and it's so difficult to determine it's a hazard for most people to try and do things this way.

I agree Nicole, I'm only saying I've seen it done. Providing the proper light is far better and easier too.

NicoleRussell · #20 (**permalink**) 10-06-2005, 01:01 AM

How large is the cage?
And also since your starting from scratch with uvb buy a reptileuv.com self ballasted bulb---either the 100 or 160 depending on the cage size. After testing dozens of bulbs I have found this to be the only one with perfect long term MWattage

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