Brazilian Rainbow Boa
(Epicrates Cenchria Cenchria)
Written by:Ritchie http://www.ritchiereptiles.com
Pics provided by JuliusSqueezer.
DESCRIPTION
The rainbow boas have an irridescent sheen about them. This is caused by the microscopic ridges on their scales. These ridges act like prisms by reflecting light into rainbows.
The Brazilians in particular are a very colorful group.
The colors range from light orange to dark red.
They have dark circles that run along their dorsal midline and on the sides they have the same dark circles but with a lighter center.
The head is marked with three lognitudinal stripes. This snake can grow to 6 - 7 feet with the average being about 5 - 6. Unlike the more common boa constrictor or imperator, these boas are more slender.
So a 6 foot rainbow boa is nowhere as massive. These snakes don't require the larger housing that other larger snakes require.
HOUSING
A forty to sixty gallon aquarium will do for a single animal. Two animals kept together will require about a hundred gallon aquarium.
Make sure that they have limbs to cimb on to maximize the surface area and to provide them with exercise. Also, as always with any reptile, always provide a hiding place.
The enclosure they are in also needs to be able to retain heat and humidity.
Also provide a moisturized hide box with moss or other substrate that can help hold the high humidity levels these snakes require.
TEMPERATURE & HUMIDITY
Night time lows should be around the low to mid 70. And the day time high in the mid to upper 80. Never allow these snakes to remain above 85 for long periods of time since it can cause death.
Humidity is a must for these snakes as well. Daily misting is recommended.
Other possible sources of moisture include but not limited to are, foggers, drip/misting systems, as well as water falls within the enclosure.
The humidity level should be around 75 - 90%. The higher the better. A humid shelter should also be provided and a water bath in which the snake can soak should also be provided.
If the humidity level drops below 50% for extended periods of time, the snake can get dehydrated and die.
SUBSTRATE
Several substrates have been used successfully with rainbow boas, these include but are not limited to the following; paper towels, newspapers, repti-bark (orchid bark), cyprus mulch and astro turf.
The one I use is Sphagnum moss. I spray mine everyday and I think it retains a lot more moisture.
Either way it is the one I prefer, and if you have a preferance then use it. Back to the subject at hand, make sure to melt the edges of the astro turf to avoid accidental ingestion.
FEEDING
Rainbow Boas are not problematic feeders. The neonates can be fed on pinkies or fuzzies.
As the snake gets older and larger it can gradually graduate to small to medium rats.
As always, feed the snake prey that is slightly larger than its largest girth. BRBs do not follow the girth rule-of-thumb that most other snakes do. It is recommended that the snake be fed pre killed or frozen thawed food items only. That way the risk of injury to the snake can be lessened.
Also food that were frozen would not have any parasites as they would have been killed by the freezing process. Do not over feed your animals. An obese animal is an unhealthy animal.
LIGHTING
These are nucturnal animals which would either not need or not benefit from the full spectrum lighting. An incandescent light can be used to help raise the temperature..
With the white light being used during the day and a red lower wattage one used at night.
This red lower wattage lamp will help with the necessary drop in temperature.
It will also shed enough light for the reptile to be viewed and still not disturb its night and day cycle.
BREEDING
Brazillian Rainbow Boas are non seasonal breeders, meaning they can breed most times out of the year.
Gestation period is four to five months. Breeding occurs during increased temperature fluctuations. Usually meaning a decrease in night time low temperatures.
Gravid females should be provided with a basking site of about 90 degrees fahrenheit.. Most optimal temperature ranges for a gravid female is NTL of 73 to a DTH of 93. Note that the 90 - 93 degrees should only be at the basking spot. The snake will need to moderate its own temperature. So provide a cool spot in the cage. Remember that the whole cage can not be above 90. Just the basking spot. Temperatures exceeding 90 and not allowing the snake to regulate or cool off can cause death.. I can't stress this enough.
PROVIDE A COOL SPOT IN THE CAGE AS WELL AS A WARM SPOT.
I have read and also been told that these snakes can reproduce every year but the fecundity decreases with yearly breeding. I am not to sure on this subject since I was only able to reproduce mine once before I had to give them up for adoption due to my housing requirements. Sexual maturity is reached at around three years of age for the males and three to four years of age for the females.
As aforementioned always provide a hide box with high moisture for these snakes. They will use this hide box to have their babies in.
OTHER NOTES
I just can't say enough about these snakes. They are among my favorites of all the snakes. They are beautiful and really cool. But then again I think that of all my snakes.
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