Rhinoceros Viper (Bitis nasicornis)

Rhinoceros Viper

(Bitis nasicornis)

Distribution
This African viper is distributed throughout Central and Western Africa, mainly occurring in the humid tropical forests. They are an extremely beautiful viperid to keep.
Prior to getting this species research as much as possible and if possible spend time with a current keeper to see if this is the species for you, it is also worth joining your local reptile society/group as they will be able to give you hints and tips (and you may be able to do the same for them).
Size
The Rhino Viper is a short, heavy-bodied snake. As is typical of the Puff Adder family. Adults usually reach an adult size of about 60 to 90cm (2 to 3ft). However, snakes up to 120cm (4ft) are not uncommon. The females are usually larger than the males. The Rhino Viper is viviparous snake giving birth to between 6 and 35 youngsters. These are usually around 18 to 25cm (7.2 and 10 inches) at birth and are fully venomous at this point.
Diet
Their main diet in the wild is small mammals. However, they have been seen eating fish and amphibians. All of the prey is ambushed using its striking colours for camouflage. In captivity appropriately sized rodents should be fed. Care should be taken not to overfeed your Rhino Viper as members of the Bitis family are prone to obesity. This species of snake should always be fed with tongs and not by hand. Ensure the snake is feeding prior to purchase.
Requirements

• Heat Source:- The heat source should always be thermostatically controlled and guarded to prevent thermal burns. Heat sources which can be used for this species are reflector spot light (green or red). Ceramic or tubular heaters can also be used. Heat mats are a useful additional source of heat although care should be taken as they have been linked to ventral scale problems and many keepers prefer only to use overhead heat with this species.
• Ultra Violet Light Source:- It should be positioned no more than 30cm away from the basking animal and left on for 10-12 hours daily. This should be replaced every 6-7 months depending on the producers advice. There use is controversial with snakes, however I recommend using them as the active behaviour and breeding behaviour of the snakes is increased and it makes for better viewing of your snakes (essential with Venomous species). Care should be taken if your reptile has unpigmented eyes (amelanistic or albinos or any other red eyed morph)as it can damage their eyes. UV lights should never be placed behind glass or plastic as this filters out the essential UV rays. Vitamin D3 supplements should not be used whilst UV lighting is used.
• Thermostat:- These should always be used on heat sources to prevent excessive temperatures damaging your reptile.
• Housing:- A dark wooden vivarium with a glass frontage and adequate ventilation is ideal for this species. Due to their shy and venomous nature the vivarium should be situated away from drafty, busy areas of the house and well away from any vibrations such as speakers, tvs, etc as the vibrations distress the animals. An enclosure measuring 90cm by 45cm by 45cm (3ft x 18 inches x 18 inches), is adequate for an adult. Adults should be maintained separately unless breeding is intended as they are a live bearing species. Hatchlings would require a small hatchling tub (a pen pal is suitable). This should be left within a larger vivarium. The Vivarium should remain locked at all times.
• Wire Mesh Guards:- These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent any thermal burns from occurring.
• Thermometers:- One should be placed at either end of the vivarium. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat as this is often incorrect.
• Hides:- These are an essential part of any vivarium as they provide the animals with an area to escape from the stresses of over exposure. They should also be provided with some branches, as some species require areas to climb. Care should be taken to ensure that these hides can be removed with tongs for ease and safety of cleaning.

Water and Humidity
A large ceramic/earthenware dog bowl is best for these reptiles as they are harder for them to tip over. This water should be changed daily as this is also the water they drink. It is also beneficial to mist the enclosure every few days with tepid water to maintain a good humidity level. A humid hide containing damp sphagnum moss should be provided in order to prevent disecdysis. The humidity should be maintained at around 75%.
Temperature
The Rhino Viper should have access to a hot spot of around 30C (86F), with a cooler end of around 25C (77F).
Longevity
These vipers tend to live for around 10 years, although older ones may occur.
NB To care for this species in the UK, a DWA license is required. For more information on this license contact your local Environmental Health Officer (EHO). The Vivarium should always remain locked.
Substrate
Ensure that a dry basking area is available in order to prevent ventral scale infections occurring. Large pieces of (Dust free and not pine or cedar) Bark Mulch can be used to good effect as long as the pieces are too large to avoid ingestion during feeding or feed your snake in a separate feeding container. Whatever you choose to use as your substrate, care should always be taken when feeding your snake, incase any substrate is ingested.
Sphagnum moss or bed-a-beast are both good substrates to use as they help to maintain the humidity. However newspaper or chip shop paper can also be used. Whatever you use, remember that it must be cleaned on a regular basis to prevent contamination from disease.
NB – Photograph taken by Stuart Dodsworth.
Map taken from http://lifemapper.org/robotfood/Reptile/Bitis%20nasicornis.HTM
Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts
Stuart Dodsworth – stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk
The International Herpetological Society – www.international-herp-society.co.uk
The British Herpetological Society – www.thebhs.org
http://www.pondturtle.com - Info on lifespans.
Taxonomy Information – http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Bitis_SP_nasicornis']
www.venombyte.com
Hot Herps Society – www.hotherps.com
http://www.venomousreptiles.org/
Local Environmental Health Officer at The Council
True Vipers, Mallow, D, Ludwig, D & Nilson, G (Krieger 2003) ISBN 0894648772

Check Mail Compose

Search Mail Search the Web

Mail Shortcuts

• Check Mail Ctrl++C
• Compose Ctrl++P

• Folders Ctrl++F
• Advanced Search Ctrl++S

• Options
• Help Ctrl++H

Address Book Shortcuts

• Add Contact
• Add Category

• View Contacts
• View Lists

• Quickbuilder
• Import Contacts
• Synchronize

• Addresses Options
• Addresses Help

Calendar Shortcuts

• Add Event
• Add Task
• Add Birthday

• Day
• Week
• Month
• Year

• Event List
• Reminders
• Tasks

• Sharing
• Synchronize

• Calendar Options
• Calendar Help

Notepad Shortcuts

• Add Note
• Add Folder

• View Notes

• Notepad Options
• Notepad Help

Advanced Search

• Advanced Search

	Morph A morph is a color or pattern variation that is proven to be genetic. Common morphs include albino, anerythristic, gentically striped, Hypomelanistic, and many others. Morphs also include combinations of simple traits such as "Sunglow" which is Albino and Hypomelanistic. These traits may be recessive traits, co-dominant traits, dominant traits, or created through selective breeding (ie Pastel).