Boa Constrictor (Boa constrictor)

Boa Constrictor

(Boa constrictor)

Distribution
Widespread throughout the neo-tropics, Boa Constrictors range from Central Mexico through Central and South America as far as Argentina. A dwarf subspecies occurs on the Honduras which barely passes 3ft in length as an adult, so be sure of what subspecies you keep or see the adults of neonates where possible. There are currently 10 subspecies recognized Short Tailed Boa (Boa constrictor amarali),Red Tailed Boa (Boa constrictor constrictor), Common Boa (Boa constrictor imperator), Long Tailed Boa (Boa constrictor longicauda),Mexican Boa (Boa constrictor mexicana), Clouded Boa (Boa constrictor nebulosa),Argentine Boa (Boa constrictor occidentalis), St Lucian Boa (Boa constrictor orophias), Orton’s Boa (Boa constrictor ortonii) and Pearl Island Boa (Boa constrictor sabogae). However, the majority of boas for sale in the UK have indistinct parentage.
Size
The average size of boas in captivity is 7-8ft for a female, with males being smaller. Occasional specimens over 10ft do occur but this is usually the result of excessive feeding. Dwarf specimens are available which rarely pass 3-4 feet, but you should check the parentage of the young and see the adults where possible.
Diet
Juvenile Boas should be fed pink mice, fuzzies and rat pups, it is best to vary the types of food fed early on in order to prevent the snake becoming addicted to one food type. As adults they should be fed large mice, rats, quail and part grown chickens. Rabbits and guinea pigs can be offered occasionally but should not be relied on as they have been linked to excessive growth and fatty livers. Guinea pig stomachs should also be cut prior to feeding in order to prevent digestive problems occurring. Adult boas are best fed on a separate feeding perch or box in order to prevent a feed induced bite when entering their enclosure.
Requirements

• Heat Source: - This can be either a reflector (spot) light in green, blue or red. Ceramic or tubular heaters can also be used, although heat mats are also a useful extra source of heat. These should be guarded and thermostatically controlled.
• UV Light Source: - Although there is a lot of controversy regarding the use of UV supplementation for snakes, many herpetologists wouldn't go without. It has therefore been included in this care sheet as a suggestion and the recommended type for snakes until further scientific research proves otherwise is a 2.0% UV light. This should be left on for 8 - 12 hours a day. Care should be taken however if your snake is albino as the light intensity could have detrimental effects on the eyes. Vitamin D3 supplements should also be kept to a minimum.
• Housing: - This should consist of a dark wooden vivarium with a glass frontage and adequate ventilation. Hatchlings will require a small hatchling tub (a pen pal is suitable) which can be left within the larger vivarium. A pair of adult snakes can be housed quite happily within a vivarium measuring 180cm long by 90cm deep by 180cm high (6 feet by 3 feet by 6 feet). The vivarium should have securely hanging logs on which the Boa Constrictor may hang. Male and females should be housed separately as they are livebearers and will produce young and not just lay eggs like pythons.
• Thermostat: - An essential part of any vivarium and is required to regulate the internal temperatures of the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.
• Wire Mesh Guards: - These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent thermal burns.
• Thermometers: - One should be placed at each end of the vivarium in order to give an accurate reading of the temperatures within the enclosure. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat as these are often inaccurate.
• Hides: - These are essential to prevent stress and allow your pet to hide away from the outside world. Artificial plants, boxes, plant pots, caves etc. all make excellent hides. Upturned plastic dog baskets have also been used to good effect in the past.

Water
These animals require a container within which they can bathe without constriction. The water should be changed daily as it is also the water the animals drink. A heavy earthenware dog bowl is sufficient for smaller boas as this is harder for them to tip over.
Temperature
A basking temperature of 31°C to 33°C (88°F to 91°F) is required. A background temperature of 26C (78F) should be provided. At night the temperature may be allowed to drop to 27°C (80°F), although this is not recommended if your snake is suffering from any respiratory infections.
Humidity
This species requires moderate to high levels of humidity. A humidity box should be inside the Vivarium. This can contain sphagnum moss, which should be misted daily to keep it moist.
Longevity
Boa Constrictors have been known to reach ages in excess of 25 to 30 years, with some even exceeding this.
NB – This is potentially a large constrictor and a back up handler needs to be available with large specimens. As with all snakes this species should never be allowed to climb around your neck.
Substrate
This can be anything from newspaper, brown paper, bark mulch or even astro turf. If bark mulch is used then it should be checked that it is dust free and large pieces of mulch in order to prevent accidental ingestion during feeding. Whatever you use remember that it must be cleaned on a regular basis to prevent contamination from disease.
NB – A distribution Map can be found at http://www.boa-constrictors.com/com/com.html
Photograph taken by Stuart Dodsworth.
Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts
Stuart Dodsworth – stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk
The International Herpetological Society – www.international-herp-society.co.uk
The British Herpetological Society – www.thebhs.org
Taxonomy Information – http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Boa_SP_constrictor']
www.bigsnakes.co.uk
http://www.boa-constrictor-snakes.com/
http://www.boa-constrictors.com/com/com.html - Info on all subspecies of Boa Constrictor.