False Water Cobra

False Water Cobra (Brazilian Smooth Snake)

(Hydrodynastes gigas)

Distribution
The False Water Cobra is a strong, fast rear fanged colubrid. It originates from Brazil, Eastern Bolivia, Paraguay and Northern Argentina. There are 2 species recognised and these are; Hydrodynastes (Cyclagras) gigas and Hydrodynastes bicinctus. Both species require the same sort of care in captivity. The only difference between the two is colour patterns. In the wild all species are never found far from water.
Size

When they hatch they are generally around 37.5cm (15 inches) long and can attain sizes of up 240cm (8 feet), although the average is between 165cm and 195cm (5½ and 6½ft) in length.
Diet
In the wild the False Water Cobra feeds on a wide variety of fish, amphibians, rodents and birds. In captivity appropriately sized rodents and freshwater fish should be offered every 6-7 days. This species has quite fast metabolism, but with larger feeds has been known to regurgitate after nearly 5 days in response to over handling, so smaller more regular feeds are best. Hatchling False Water Cobras are often picky feeders, but will start to eat fish, garter grub, earthworms and pinkies soon enough.
It must be noted that this species has been recorded cannibalizing in captivity, so if keeping more than one specimen together ensure they are kept well fed and are of a similar size.
Requirements

• Heat Source: - These can be thermostatically controlled and guarded reflector (spot) lights in green/red, or ceramic bulbs. Although thermostatically controlled heat mats are also a useful additional source of heat.

• Ultra Violet Light Source: - Although the use of UV lighting with snakes is a controversial one, I personally recommend the use of a Reptisun 5.0 or equivalent light with this species as it is shown to increase the appetite, breeding behaviour and general well being of the snakes. It also makes it easier to see where the snake is hiding if a ceramic heater is used. This should be positioned no more than 30cm away from the snake when it is basking and left on for between 8 and 12 hours daily. This should be replaced every 6 months. If you have a snake with unpigmented eyes (Amelanistic/exanthic/etc) then UV lighting should not be used as it can damage the eyes.

• Wire Mesh Guards: - These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent any thermal burns from occurring.
• Thermometers: - One should be placed at either end of the vivarium. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat, as this is often inaccurate.
• Hides: - These are essential to prevent stress and allow your pet to hide away from the outside world. Due to the naturally messy nature of this snake easily cleaned/disposed of hides are essential – plastic plants/cardboard tubes and rolls are a good idea.
• Housing - This should consist of a dark wooden Vivarium with glass frontage and adequate ventilation or vision cage. Hatchlings can be kept in a smaller container inside their future Vivarium. A pair of adults will require a spacious Vivarium measuring approximately 150cm by 60cm by 60cm (5ft by 2ft by 2ft). A large fitted water area is useful to have with this species, or a heavy earthenware cat litter tray is also useful as the snakes cannot tip it over.

Temperature
During the day time a temperature gradient of between 26 and 29°C (78 to 84F) is adequate, a basking area which reaches 30 to 32°C (86 to 89F) should be provided. At night time the temperature may be dropped to around 20 to 22°C (68 to 71F).
Humidity and water
This species of snake should have a large water container in its enclosure, in which it can bath, drink and swim. The ambient humidity in the enclosure should be between 50 and 65%, this can be achieved by misting the enclosure every other day with tepid water.
Longevity
This species can live in excess of 15 years in a captive environment.
NB - False Water Cobras are rear-fanged snakes. The venom has shown to be roughly equivalent to that of a Western Diamondback Rattlesnake. This snake should NOT be kept by anybody but experienced Herpetologists, due to its aggressive and often unpredictable temperament. It is a good species for people intending to keep DWA specimens for handling practice.
Substrate
Newspaper or chip shop paper is the best substrates to use as it cannot damage the scales or be ingested during this species’ feeding frenzy. Astro turf and grass mating should not be used with this species as they have been known to cause scale damage. Large pieces of Dust free Bark mulch (not pine or aspen) are quite a good substrate as it aids in maintaining the humidity in the enclosure, ensure the substrate is too large to ingest when feeding.
NB – Photograph taken by Stuart Dodsworth
Map will be added as soon as one is located.
Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts
Stuart Dodsworth – stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk
The International Herpetological Society – www.international-herp-society.co.uk
The British Herpetological Society – www.thebhs.org
Taxonomy Information – http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Hydrodynastes_SP_gigas']
www.petsnakes.co.uk
www.venombyte.com
Hot Herps Society – www.hotherps.com
http://bio.bd.psu.edu/dmm/snake/snake.htm
Venom information - http://homepage.ntlworld.com/steve.woodward/lecture3.htm
www.reptilekeeper.co.uk