Macklot’s Python
(Katrinus mackloti)
Distribution
This species of boid naturally occurs in humid habitats in Indonesia, Papua New Guinea, and coastal areas of Northern Australia. Until recently this species was classified as
Liasis mackloti and is still referred to as this by many authorities.
There are currently two subspecies recognised and they are Macklot’s or Freckled Python (
Katrinus mackloti mackloti) and Wetar Island Water Python (
Katrinus mackloti dunni). All these subspecies and the taxonomic status of Macklot’s Pythons are currently in dispute and may change. The Savu Island Python (
Katrinus mackloti savuensis) is now a species of its own and is now known as
Katrinus savuensis. This species has a reputation for aggression, although many calm down with age. It is due to this temperament that Macklot’s should be kept by experienced keepers.
Size
Hatchlings of this species start off at 15 to 20” before ending up at an average size for a male of 6 to 7 feet, with females averaging 7 to 8 feet. Occasionally snakes up to 9 feet in length have occurred.
Diet
Macklot’s will usually feed on appropriately sized rodents; care should be taken not to overfeed.
Snakes should always be fed with tongs and not by hand. A separate sheet is available on defrosting/offering food to your snake.
Requirements- Heat Source – A guarded and thermostatically controlled Ceramic heater or red/green reflector spot bulb is usually the best method of heating. Care should be taken if heat mats are used as ventral infections and damage has been linked to their use.
- UV Light Source: - Although there is a lot of controversy regarding the use of UV supplementation with snakes, many herpetologists wouldn't be without one. It has therefore been included here as a suggestion and the recommended type for snakes until further scientific research proves otherwise is a Reptisun UVB light. This should be left on for 8 to 12 hours a day and replaced every 6 months unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer. If used these should be positioned no more than 30cm away from the basking reptile. Care should be taken however if your snake is albino as the light intensity could have detrimental effects on the eyes of your snake. Vitamin D3 supplements should not be used as well as a UV light.
- Housing: - This should consist of a dark wooden vivarium with glass frontage and adequate ventilation. Hatchlings require a small hatchling tub (pen pal, geoflat or even a ventilated sandwich box), which can be housed in a heated vivarium. An adult snake can be housed within a vivarium measuring 210cm long by 20cm deep by 60cm high (7ft by 3ft by 2ft). Although the size depends on the adult snake a rough guide would be ˝ the body length long by a third of the body length wide.
- Thermostat: - An essential part of any vivarium and is required to regulate the internal temperatures of the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.
- Wire Mesh Guards: - These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent thermal burns.
- Thermometers: - One should be placed at each end of the vivarium in order to give an accurate reading of the temperatures within the vivarium. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat, as these are often inaccurate.
- Hides: - These are essential to prevent stress and allow your pet to hide away from the outside world. Artificial plants, plant pots, cave etc. all make excellent hides. A box with a whole just big enough for the snake to fit through (either on the side or top) is an excellent hide especially for problem feeders. Strong secure branches should be fitted to allow climbing.
Water and Humidity
A large ceramic/earthenware dog bowl is best for these snakes as they are harder for them to tip over. This water should be changed daily as this is also the water they drink. The humidity level should be maintained at around 60-65%, this species is prone to dehydration so care should be taken to ensure adequate water and ambient humidity is provided. It is also beneficial to mist the enclosure every few days with tepid water to maintain a good humidity level. During ecdysis the humidity should be raised to 75 – 80% and a humid hide containing damp sphagnum moss should be provided in order to prevent disecdysis. If the humidity level is not achieved with this species eye/respiratory infections have been known to occur.
Temperature
A background temperature of 80 degrees Fahrenheit is required. A basking area covering one third of the vivarium should be allowed to reach temperatures of up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
Longevity
If properly cared for this species can live for in excess of 20 years. There are reports of 30 – 40 years old snakes but these have not been substantiated.
Substrate
Large pieces of (Dust free and not pine or cedar) Bark Mulch can be used to good effect as long as the pieces are too large to avoid ingestion during feeding or feed your snake in a separate feeding container.
Nb photograph and distribution map will be added at a later date.
Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts
Stuart Dodsworth –
stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk
The International Herpetological Society –
www.international-herp-society.co.uk
The British Herpetological Society –
www.thebhs.org
Taxonomy Information –
http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Liasis_SP_mackloti']
www.bigsnakes.co.uk
www.petsnakes.co.uk
http://www.cviewmedia.com/Articles/OR01_A_Revision_of_the_AUSTRALASIAN_PYTHONS.html
http://www.vpi.com/8VPICareSheets/Pythons/FreckledPython/FreckledPythonDesc.htm
http://www.smuggled.com/pr23.htm
http://www.reptilerooms.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=printview&t=15344&start=0
www.reptilekeeper.co.uk
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