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<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Desert King Snake (Lampropeltis getula splendida)<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
Desert King Snake (Lampropeltis getula splendida)
Published by StuartDodsworth
10-07-2006
Desert King Snake (Lampropeltis getula splendida)

Desert King Snake
(Lampropeltis getula splendida)
Distribution
This subspecies of Kingsnake is also known as the Sonoran King Snake. In the wild it is mainly found in scrub land not far from water. It tends to be mainly crepuscular/nocturnal in the wild.
It is found from Central and Southern Texas west to the South of New Mexico. In Mexico it ranges as far as Sonora.
Size
As an adult this species averages between 90cm and 112.5cm (36” and 45”), with a record of 150cm (60”) being recorded.
Diet
Snakes should always be fed with tongs and not by hand. A separate sheet is available on defrosting/offering food to your snake. In the wild this species feeds upon other species of snakes (Including rattlesnakes (Crotalus sp.), lizards, mammals and birds. In captivity a diet of appropriately sized rodents is adequate.
Requirements
  • Heat Source – A guarded and thermostatically controlled Ceramic heater or red/green reflector spot bulb is usually the best method of heating these should be guarded to prevent thermal burns from occurring. Care should be taken if heat mats are used as ventral infections and damage has been linked to their use.
  • UV Light Source: - Although there is a lot of controversy regarding the use of UV supplementation with snakes, many herpetologists wouldn't be without one. It has therefore been included here as a suggestion and the recommended type for snakes until further scientific research proves otherwise is a 5.0 light or equivelant. This should be left on for 8 to 12 hours a day and replaced every 6 months unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer. It should also be sited no more than 30cm away from the basking area and not behind glass or Perspex. Care should be taken however if your snake is albino as the light intensity could have detrimental effects on the eyes of your snake. Vitamin D3 supplements should not be used as well as a UV light.
  • Housing: - This should consist of a dark wooden vivarium with glass frontage and adequate ventilation. Hatchlings require a small hatchling tub (pen pal, geoflat or even a ventilated sandwich box) which can be housed in a heated vivarium. An adult can be housed within a vivarium measuring 90cm long by 45cm deep by 45cm high (36 inches by 18 inches by 18 inches).
  • Thermostat: - An essential part of any vivarium and is required to regulate the internal temperatures of the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.
  • Wire Mesh Guards: - These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent thermal burns.
  • Thermometers: - One should be placed at each end of the vivarium in order to give an accurate reading of the temperatures within the vivarium. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat as these are often inaccurate.
  • Hides: - These are essential to prevent stress and allow your pet to hide away from the outside world. Artificial plants, boxes, plant pots, caves etc. all make excellent hides. A box with a whole just big enough for the snake to fit through (either on the side or top) is an excellent hide especially for problem feeders.
Water and Humidity
A large ceramic/earthenware dog bowl is best for these snakes as they are harder for them to tip over. This water should be changed daily as this is also the water they drink.
Temperature
A background temperature of 25.5 - 26°C (76 - 78°F) is required. A basking area covering one third of the vivarium should be allowed to reach temperatures of 31°C (86°F). At night the temperature may be allowed to drop to 27°C (80°F), although this is not recommended if your snake is suffering from any respiratory infections
NB - They should be maintained individually as they are cannibalistic.
Longevity
This species can live up to 15 years in captivity if given the correct care, with many exceeding this.
NB- Photograph taken by Stuart Dodsworth.
A distribution map will be added at a later date.
Substrate
Large pieces of (Dust free and not pine or cedar) Bark Mulch can be used to good effect as long as the pieces are too large to avoid ingestion during feeding or feed your snake in a separate feeding container. Although the safest substrate by far is still chip shop paper.
Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts
Stuart Dodsworth – stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk
The International Herpetological Society – www.international-herp-society.co.uk
The British Herpetological Society – www.thebhs.org
Taxonomy Information – http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Lampropeltis_SP_getula']
www.petsnakes.co.uk
www.reptilekeeper.co.uk
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