Sinaloan Milk Snake
(Lampropeltis triangulum sinaloae)
Distribution
This sub-specie of Milk Snake occurs in South Western Sonora, Sinaloa and South Western Chihuahua in Mexico.
This subspecies occurs in a wide variety of habitats within this range.
Size
Hatchling
Lampropeltis triangulum sinaloae are between 8 and 10 inches. Adult
Lampropeltis triangulum sinaloae can reach sizes of up to 120cm (4ft).
Diet
Their diet consists of pink mice and fuzzies for hatchlings, although in the wild this would normally consist of frogs and small lizards. As the snake grows so will the size of prey size offered, from pink mice to eventually large mice and small rats. Adult snakes should be offered food every 7-10 days depending upon the amount of food given. These should always be defrosted properly (never live) and offered via a pair of feeding tongs (never fingers).
Requirements
- Heat Source: - This can be either reflector spotlights in green, red or blue, ceramic or tubular heaters. Heat mats are also a useful alternative. All heat sources should be thermostatically controlled and guarded.
- UV Light Source: - There is a lot of controversy surrounding the use of UV lighting with snakes. I personally due to research so far prefer to use them with snakes (not ones with red or unpigmented eyes) as a greater appetite and breeding behaviour is noticed. The best sort to use is a Reptisun 5.0 and this should be positioned 30cm away from the snakes basking site and left on for 8-12 hours per day. This should be replaced every 6 months.
- Housing: - This should consist of a dark wooden vivarium with glass frontage and adequate ventilation. Hatchlings would require a small hatchling tub (a pen pal is suitable) which can be housed within the larger vivarium. An adult snake can be housed quite happily within a vivarium measuring 90cm long by 45cm deep by 45cm high (36 inches by 18 inches by 18 inches). These snakes should never be housed in pairs as they are cannibalistic and will eat each other.
- Thermostat: - An essential part of any vivarium and is required to regulate the internal temperatures of the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.
- Wire Mesh Guards: - These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent thermal burns.
- Thermometers: - One should be placed at each end of the vivarium in order to give an accurate reading of the temperatures within the enclosure. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat as these are often inaccurate.
- Hides: - These are essential to prevent stress and allow your pet to hide away from the outside world. Artificial plants, boxes, plant pots, caves etc. all make excellent hides. A good hide for a Milk Snake should have one entrance hole just big enough for the snake to get in and out. This must be small enough for the snake to touch three sides of the hide with its body whilst hiding.
Water
These animals require a container within which they can bathe without constriction. This water should be changed daily as it is also the water, which they drink from. A heavy earthenware dog/cat bowl is ideal as it is harder for the snakes to over turn these.
Temperature
A background temperature of 25.5 - 26°C (76 - 78°F) is required. A basking area covering one third of the vivarium should be allowed to reach temperatures of 31°C (86°F). At night the temperature may be allowed to drop to 27°C (80°F), although this is not recommended if your snake is suffering from any respiratory infections.
Longevity
On average a well cared for Milk Snake can live for 10 to 15 years, although specimens living past 20 years old have occurred.
Substrate
This can be anything from newspaper, brown paper or even astro turf. Whatever you use remember that it must be cleaned on a regular basis to prevent contamination from disease. Large pieces of (Dust free and not pine or cedar) Bark Mulch can be used to good effect as long as the pieces are too large to avoid ingestion during feeding or feed your snake in a separate feeding container. Care must be taken to ensure that the basking site is kept dry to limit the potential of ventral scale infections occurring.
Brumation
If you choose to brumate your snake a temperature of 12 - 17°C (52 - 62°F) for a period of 90 days would be satisfactory. Most people tend to do this around the end of October until the end of January. Water should always be available and no food should be given 2 weeks before the beginning of the brumation period. The temperature within the vivarium should be decreased in stages gradually. Brumation is not recommended if your snake is unwell in any way or has not eaten sufficiently during the year. It is also not recommended for hatchlings.
NB- Photograph taken from http://www.kingsnake.com/king/triangulum/sinaloae.html
Map taken from http://milksnakes.com/encyclopedia/sinaloae.htm
Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts
Stuart Dodsworth –
stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk
The International Herpetological Society –
www.international-herp-society.co.uk
The British Herpetological Society –
www.thebhs.org
Taxonomy Information –
http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Lampropeltis_SP_triangulum']
www.petsnakes.co.uk
http://www.kingsnake.com/king/triangulum/sinaloae.html
http://www.applegatereptiles.com/articles/bookgeninfo.htm
http://milksnakes.com/encyclopedia/sinaloae.htm
www.reptilekeeper.co.uk
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