Northern Red Sided Garter Snake
(Thamnophis sirtalis parietalis)
Distribution
This subspecies of Common Garter Snake (
Thamnophis sirtalis) originates from areas in between British Columbia and Oklahoma, with small populations occurring in Southern Canada. This subspecies is renowned for its mating frenzies in early spring, when it wakes up from brumation in the millions. In the wild they frequent a wide range of habitats, but not usually far from a damp habitat.
Size
This subspecies averages 2-4 feet in length.
Diet
Their main diet consists of earthworms, strips of garter grub, molluscs and fish for hatchlings. As the snake grows, so will the frequency and amount of food given as well as an increase in prey size. From pink mice to small mice, earthworms, fish, crickets, strips of raw beef and garter grub. It is very important that these particular snakes are given a varied diet in order to prevent nutritional disorders. If fish is used, it should be defrosted and then dunked in boiling water for 30 seconds to kill the thiaminaise and aid in the reduction of the risk of deficiencies occurring. Freshwater fish is best.
Requirements
- Heat Source: - This can be either reflector spotlights in green, red or blue, ceramics or tubular heaters. Heat mats are also a useful alternative. All heat sources should be guarded and thermostatically controlled.
- UV Light Source: -Although this is controversial I prefer to use a Reptisun 5.0 UVB light with this species as it aids in breeding and feeding success. This should be positioned no more than 30 cm away from the basking snake and left on for 8 – 12 hours daily. This should be replaced every 6 months. Snakes with unpigmented eyes should not be exposed to UV lights as this can damage their eyes.
- Housing: - This should consist of a dark wooden vivarium with glass frontage and adequate ventilation. Hatchlings would require a small hatchling tub (pen pal, geoflat or even a ventilated sandwich box), which can be housed in a heated vivarium. A pair of adult snakes can live quite happily in a vivarium measuring 60 cm long by 45cm deep by 45cm high (24 inches long by 18 inches deep and 18 inches high). If you do not want to breed from this species then it is best to keep single sex pairs, as they are live bearers.
- Thermostat: - An essential part of any vivarium and is required to regulate the internal temperatures of the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.
- Wire Mesh Guards: - These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent thermal burns.
- Thermometers: - One should be placed at each end of the vivarium in order to give an accurate reading of the temperatures within the vivarium. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat, as these are often inaccurate.
- Hides: - These are essential to prevent stress and allow your pet to hide away from the outside world. Artificial plants, boxes, plant pots, cave etc. all make excellent hides.
Water
These animals require a water container, which will allow them to bathe without constriction. This water should be changed daily as this is also the water they drink.
Temperature
A background temperature of 25.5 - 26°C (76 - 78°F) should be created with a basking area of one third of the vivarium reaching temperatures of 27 - 28°C (80 - 82°F). At night the temperature may be allowed to drop to 26°C (78°F) although this is not recommended if the snake is suffering any respiratory infections.
Longevity
This species may reach ages in excess of 10 years if cared for correctly.
Substrate
This can be anything from newspaper, chip shop paper. It is essential that this species have a dry basking area. Whatever you use remember that it must be cleaned on a regular basis to prevent contamination from disease. Dust Free (Not cedar or pine) bark mulch, which is of too large a size to be ingested is excellent as it aids in maintaining the humidity.
Brumation
If you choose to brumate your snake a temperature of 12 - 17°C (52 - 62°F) for a period of 90 days would be satisfactory. Most people tend to do this around the end of October until the end of January. Water should always be available and no food should be given from 2 weeks before the beginning of the brumation period. Brumation is not recommended if your snake is unwell in any way or if your snake has not eaten sufficiently during the year. It is also not recommended for hatchlings.
NB – photograph taken from http://www.reptarium.cz/fotogalerie.php?foto=779
A map will be added as soon as one is located.
Recommended Reading/Useful contacts
Stuart Dodsworth –
stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk
The International Herpetological Society –
www.international-herp-society.co.uk
The British Herpetological Society –
www.thebhs.org
Taxonomy Information –
http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Thamnophis_SP_sirtalis']
www.petsnakes.co.uk
www.thamnophis.com
http://www.anapsid.org/garters2.html
http://animaldiversity.ummz.umich.edu/site/accounts/information/Thamnophis_sirtalis.html
http://www.gartersnake.info/species/T_sirtalis.phtml
www.reptilekeeper.co.uk
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