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<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Kenyan Sand Boa<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
Kenyan Sand Boa
Published by StuartDodsworth
10-07-2006
Kenyan Sand Boa

Kenyan Sand Boa
(Gongylophis colubrinus)

Distribution
The Kenyan Sand Boa is also known as the East African Sand Boa. In the wild its natural range is Ethiopia, Yemen, Tanzania, Somalia and surrounding countries. It is generally nocturnal in its habits. There are currently two subspecies recognised and these are The Egyptian Sand Boa (Gongylophis colubrinus colubrinus) and The Kenyan Sand Boa (Gongylophis colubrinus loveridgei). Until recently this species was classified as Eryx colubrinus.

Size
Sand Boas are small, stocky snakes, which generally reach lengths of between 30cm and 60cm (1ft and 2ft) in length. Male Sand Boas are smaller than the females. The weights for adult sand boas tend to be between 250g and 500g, with some exceeding this.

Diet
In the wild their diet would consist of lizards and small rodents. The majority of their food is caught during the night, which means it is often best to feed your boas around dusk. In captivity pinkies through to small rodents can be fed, dependant upon the size of your snake. Nothing wider than the fattest part of your snake should be offered. It is best to feed your snake in a separate enclosure, to prevent ingestion of substrate. The feeding box can either be a pen-pal (Blacked out) or a pillow case.
Baby sand Boas should be fed every 5 to 7 days, with adults being fed once a week to once a fortnight dependant on its hunger. The majority of male sand boas do not get big enough to eat anything over the size of a fuzzy mouse.

Requirements
Heat Source: - Reflector spot lights (red/green) or Ceramic heaters can be used as long as they are guarded and thermostatically controlled. Thermostatically controlled heat mats can also be used to good effect.
Ultra Violet Light Source: - Although controversial, I prefer to use a Reptisun UVB light with Sand boas for 10 -12 hours a day, this should be positioned no more than 30 cm away from the basking reptile and should be changed every 6 months, If you decide to use a UV with your snake, care should be taken if your snake is albino as the light intensity could have detrimental effects on the eyes of your snake.
Thermostat: - An essential part of every vivarium and is required to control the heat inside the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.
Wire Mesh Guards: - These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent any thermal burns from occurring.
Thermometers: - One should be placed at either end of the vivarium. Never go by the temperatures shown on the thermostat, as these are often inaccurate.
Hides: - These should always be provided to help prevent the snakes from becoming stressed; sand boas generally prefer small flat logs.
Housing – A dark wooden Vivarium measuring 60cm by 45cm by 30cm (2ft x 18” x 12”), is adequate for an adult Sand Boa.

Humidity
Sand Boas live in very arid areas in the wild. Therefore, a low humidity is required, a shallow water bowl should be provided at least every other day, and too much humidity can cause respiratory problems in this species. A humid hide should be provided to assist with ecdysis.

Temperature
They should be provided with a hot basking area which can reach temperatures of up to 32 to 35C (90 and 95F). The background temperature should be maintained at around 23C (75F). At night the temperature may be allowed to drop to around 26C (80F) at the hot end.

Longevity
Specimens have been known to live in excess of 20 years.

Substrate
At the present time Sand/soil mixes seem to be popular, as they allow tunneling behaviour. This should be maintained at a depth of approximately 3½ to 5cm (1½” to 2”)
Whatever you use, remember that it must be cleaned on a regular basis to prevent contamination from disease.

NB Photograph taken by Stuart Dodsworth.
Map taken from http://www.kingsnake.com/sandboa/colubrin.html

Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts

Stuart Dodsworth – stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk
The International Herpetological Society – www.international-herp-society.co.uk
The British Herpetological Society – www.thebhs.org
Taxonomy Information – http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/s...-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Gongylophis_SP_colubrinus']
http://www.kingsnake.com/sandboa/colubrin.html
http://www.anapsid.org/kenyan.html
http://www.petsnake.co.uk/care_sheet-kensand.php
http://www.reptileforums.com/care_sh...yansandboa.htm
http://www.sundialreptile.com/caresheet-ksb.htm
www.reptilekeeper.co.uk
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By Alexandra_Nofi on 04-25-2011, 01:14 AM
Re: Kenyan Sand Boa

Great care sheet, gave me some nice in sight into this species which I have wanted for years.

It should be noted that in relation to maintenance, kenyan sand boas require less than larger boas and are relatively inexpensive to house. However, in relation to handling, this is more of a display snake than an actual pet. Because sand boas burrow, they are wary of things approaching them from above.

The best way to handle a kenyan sand boa is to scoop them out from under the substrate, scooping from near tail end to the head. These snakes require a lot of privacy, so, when inside a hide box or favorite hiding place, they should not be bothered. These snakes cannot climb, either. You can't really carry them on your shoulder like other constrictors. They are also very fast and need to be watched closely during handling.

Otherwise, fantastic beginner snake that can introduce new keepers into the world of boas, both in general care and temperament.
Last edited by Alexandra_Nofi; 04-25-2011 at 01:16 AM..
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