Ball Python

Royal Python

(Python regius)

Distribution
This snake is often referred to as the Ball Python due to its defensive habit of coiling into a tight ball. These snakes come from areas of Central and Western Africa, where they are often found on the ground or in the trees of forest land. They spend a lot of their time down humid burrows.
Size
Young are born at between 30 and 40cm (12 to 16 inches) in length, reaching approximately 60cm (2 feet) within the first 12 months of growth. As adults there maximum size is usually between 120 and 180cm (4 - 6 feet) in length. This size is usually reached within their first five years of life, dependant upon environmental conditions.
Diet
Their main diet should consist of pink mice, fuzzies and rat pups for hatchlings. As the snake grows, so will the size of the food, from pink mice to eventually large rats and medium sized poultry. Problem feeding specimens can usually be tempted to feed with Gerbils or Hamsters. This species naturally fasts in the wild so if your snake refuses to feed for a few months do not panic (but ensure all the environmental conditions are correct). Snakes should always be fed with tongs and not by hand. A separate sheet is available on defrosting/offering food to your snake.
Requirements

• Heat Source – A thermostatically controlled and guarded Ceramic heater or red/green reflector spot bulb is usually the best method of heating these should be guarded to prevent thermal burns from occurring. Care should be taken if heat mats are used as ventral infections and damage has been linked to their use.
• UV Light Source: - Although there is a lot of controversy regarding the use of UV supplementation with snakes, many herpetologists wouldn't be without one. It has therefore been included here as a suggestion and the recommended type for snakes until further scientific research proves otherwise is a 2.0% UV light. This should be left on for 8 to 12 hours a day and replaced every 6 months unless otherwise stated by the manufacturer. Care should be taken however if your snake is albino as the light intensity could have detrimental effects on the eyes of your snake. Vitamin D3 supplements should not be used as well as a UV light.
• Housing: - This should consist of a dark wooden vivarium with glass frontage and adequate ventilation. Hatchlings require a small hatchling tub (pen pal, geoflat or even a ventilated sandwich box) which can be housed in a heated vivarium. A pair of adult snakes can be housed within a vivarium measuring 90cm long by 45cm deep by 45cm high (36 inches by 18 inches by 18 inches).
• Thermostat: - An essential part of any vivarium and is required to regulate the internal temperatures of the vivarium and to prevent your pet from becoming too hot or too cold.
• Wire Mesh Guards: - These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent thermal burns.
• Thermometers: - One should be placed at each end of the vivarium in order to give an accurate reading of the temperatures within the vivarium. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat as these are often inaccurate.
• Hides: - These are essential to prevent stress and allow your pet to hide away from the outside world. Artificial plants, boxes, plant pots, caves etc. all make excellent hides. A box with a whole just big enough for the snake to fit through (either on the side or top) is an excellent hide especially for problem feeders.

Water and Humidity
A large ceramic/earthenware dog bowl is best for these snakes as they are harder for them to tip over. This water should be changed daily as this is also the water they drink. It is also beneficial to mist the enclosure every few days with tepid water to maintain a good humidity level. A humid hide containing damp sphagnum moss should be provided in order to prevent disecdysis. Do not spray the enclosure daily however as this can lead to ventral scale problems and respiratory problems if the snake does not have a dry surface to bask on, this especially applies to snakes maintained upon heatmats.
Temperature
A background temperature of 27°C (80°F) is required. A basking area covering one third of the vivarium should be allowed to reach temperatures of 33 - 34°C (88 - 90°F). At night the temperature may be allowed to drop to 27°C (80°F), although this is not recommended if your snake is suffering from any respiratory infections or is under any other kind of veterinary care.
Longevity
These snakes have been known to reach ages of around 18 years, although snakes living up to and in excess of 25 years are not uncommon.
NB- This species is renowned for being a problem feeder, always ensure that the snake is feeding prior to purchase. For this reason it is not suitable as a first time snake.
Substrate
This can be anything from newspaper, brown paper or even astro turf. Whatever you use remember that it must be cleaned on a regular basis to prevent contamination from disease. Large sizes of bark mulch (Not pine or cedar) can be used to good effect as long as the snake is fed away from the substrate to prevent ingestion, as this substrate also aids in maintaining the humidity. If the snake is suffering from any kind of ventral scale problems then it is best to maintain it on paper until the problem has been sorted out, to prevent any further irritation to the scales.
The photograph was taken by Stuart Dodsworth.
The distribution map was taken from http://www.reptil-zoo.dk/UDB_Python_regius_UK.html
Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts
Stuart Dodsworth – stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk
The International Herpetological Society – www.international-herp-society.co.uk
The British Herpetological Society – www.thebhs.org
www.bigsnakes.co.uk – a useful source of boid information.
Taxonomy Information - http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Python_SP_regius']
Exotic Animal Welfare Trust – www.eawt.co.uk
www.Petsnakes.co.uk
www.reptilekeeper.co.uk