Bull Snake

by Stuart Dodsworth
Bull Snake

(Pituophis catenifer sayi)

Distribution
This beautiful snake is currently recognized as a subspecies of Gopher Snake (Pituophis catenifer), although in the past it was classified as a subspecies of Pine Snake (Pituophis melanoleucus).
The Bullsnake is widespread in agricultural areas and scrub land throughout large areas of Western, Southern and South Eastern USA.
Prior to getting this species research as much as possible and if possible spend time with a current keeper to see if this is the species for you, it is also worth joining your local reptile society/group as they will be able to give you hints and tips (and you may be able to do the same for them).
Size
The hatchlings of this species are usually large enough to manage fuzzie mice from their first slough. The average size for this species is 120cm – 240cm (4-8ft), although larger specimens do occasionally occur. This is an extremely powerful snake and can be a little imposing for a first time owner when they stand up and snort and hiss to bluff you.
Diet
Adult Bullsnakes should be fed adult rodents such as large mice, gerbils and dependent upon the size of the snake rats. They are best being fed every 10 – 14 days dependant upon the size of the meals being given.
Always ensure the snake is guaranteed to feed on mice/pinkies before purchasing it - the best ones to get by far are well-established captives or Captive bred specimens and not wild caught specimens. When feeding your snake it is essential that you either use a feeding box or feed it on substrate that it cannot ingest. They should also always be fed using tongs and not by hand.
Requirements

• Heat Source: - The heat source should always be thermostatically controlled and guarded to prevent thermal burns. Heat sources, which can be used for this species, are reflector spot light (green or red), Ceramic heaters or heat mats. Heat mats are a useful additional source of heat although care should be taken as they have been linked to ventral scale problems in heavier bodied adults.
• Ultra Violet Light Source: - If used it should be positioned no more than 30cm away from the basking animal and left on for 10-12 hours daily. This should be replaced every 6-7 months depending on the manufacturer’s advice. There use is controversial with snakes, however I recommend using them as the active behaviour and breeding behaviour of the snakes is increased and it makes for better viewing of your snake. Care should be taken if your reptile has unpigmented eyes (amelanistic or albinos or any other red eyed morph) as it can damage their eyes. UV lights should never be placed behind glass or plastic as this filters out the essential UV rays. Vitamin D3 supplements should not be used whilst UV lighting is used.
• Thermostat: - These should always be used on heat sources to prevent excessive temperatures damaging your reptile.
• Housing: - A dark wooden vivarium with a glass frontage is ideal for this species. Due to their shy nature the vivarium should be situated away from drafty, busy areas of the house and well away from any vibrations such as speakers, TVs, etc as the vibrations distress the animals. An adult snake can be housed within a vivarium measuring 90cm long by 45cm deep by 45cm high (36 Inches by 18 Inches by 18 Inches) as a minimum.
• Wire Mesh Guards: - These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent any thermal burns from occurring.
• Thermometers: - One should be placed at either end of the vivarium. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat, as this is often incorrect.
• Hides: - These are an essential part of any vivarium as they provide the animals with an area to escape from the stresses of over exposure. They should also be provided with some branches, as some species require areas to climb.

Water and Humidity
A large ceramic/earthenware dog bowl is best for these reptiles as they are harder for them to tip over. This water should be changed daily as this is also the water they drink.
Temperature
A background temperature of 24 to 26 degrees Celsius (75 - 78 degrees Fahrenheit) is required. A basking area covering one third of the vivarium should be allowed to reach temperatures of 28 to 31degrees Celsius (82 to 88 degrees Fahrenheit). At nighttime the temperature may be allowed to drop to 26 degrees Celsius (78 degrees Fahrenheit), although it is not recommended if your snake is suffering from any respiratory infections.
Longevity
This subspecies has been known to live up to between 22 and 28 years of age. The average lifespan is 10 – 15 years.
Substrate
Ensure that a dry basking area is available in order to prevent ventral scale infections occurring. Large pieces of (Dust free and not pine or cedar) Bark Mulch can be used to good effect as long as the pieces are too large to avoid ingestion during feeding or feed your snake in a separate feeding container. Whatever you choose to use as your substrate, care should always be taken when feeding your snake, to prevent any substrate being ingested.
Brumation
If you choose to brumate your snake a temperature of 12 to 15 degrees Celsius (53.6 to 59 degrees Fahrenheit), for a period of 90 days would be satisfactory. Most people tend to do this around the end of October until the end of January. Water should always be available and no food should be given 2 weeks before the beginning of the brumation period. This is not recommended if your snake is unwell in any way or if your snake has not eaten sufficiently during the year. It is also not recommended for hatchlings.
NB – Photograph taken by Stuart Dodsworth.
A Distribution Map will be added at a later date.
Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts
Stuart Dodsworth – stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk
The International Herpetological Society – www.international-herp-society.co.uk
The British Herpetological Society – www.thebhs.org
Taxonomy Information – http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Pituophis_SP_catenifer']
www.petsnakes.co.uk
http://www.pondturtle.com/lsnakec.html#Pituophis - Info on lifespan.
http://www.tpwd.state.tx.us/huntwild/wild/species/bullsnake/
http://www.petplace.com/reptiles/choosing-a-bull-snake/page1.aspx
http://www.mnzoo.com/animals/minnesota_trail/bsnake_1.asp

	Morph A morph is a color or pattern variation that is proven to be genetic. Common morphs include albino, anerythristic, gentically striped, Hypomelanistic, and many others. Morphs also include combinations of simple traits such as "Sunglow" which is Albino and Hypomelanistic. These traits may be recessive traits, co-dominant traits, dominant traits, or created through selective breeding (ie Pastel).