A little help?

_Sam_ · #1 (**permalink**) 10-26-2007, 12:34 AM

This is an odd request.

is there anyone out there that can tell me the basics of saltwater keeping?
As much as I can learn, the better.
I work at a small, private-owned reptile/fish store. There was one girl I always worked with (who had been working there for years and years) that just quit. Now it's just me. I'm pretty okay with basic tropical fish stuff and basic lizard and snake stuff, but I know nothing about saltwater fish. I've always just asked my coworker to answer their questions, but now I need to learn, and quickly.

I'm reading books and stuff as well, but sometimes people with experience know more than a simple book can tell me.

I'm sorry if this is completely stupid, but everyone has to learn sometime, and now is my time..

owen.richards · #2 (**permalink**) 10-26-2007, 12:36 AM

put it in a jar and on a shelf...o you mean keeping fish alive in saltwater...no cant help yah sry, i thought you ment keeping saltwater

_Sam_ · #3 (**permalink**) 10-26-2007, 12:41 AM

haha thanks dr. sarcasmo. lolz.

Shadrach · #4 (**permalink**) 10-26-2007, 12:44 AM

Just depends on what you are looking to gain here. Do you want basic things like Salt to water ratio and ammonia, etc.... levels or things like setups, filters, protein skimmers? Or what fish can be kept with each other?

_Sam_ · #5 (**permalink**) 10-26-2007, 12:48 AM

well seeing as I know absolutely nothing right now.... anything you can tell me.

I guess it'd be easiest to start with the set-up.

skiploder · #6 (**permalink**) 10-28-2007, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tdg_onex

well seeing as I know absolutely nothing right now.... anything you can tell me.
I guess it'd be easiest to start with the set-up.

Depends on the type of set up you are looking for - fish only with live rock (FOWLR) or a reef. This will determine the type of fish you can keep, the size of the tank you will need, lighting, biological filtration requirements, etc.

The basics are fairly simple and as long as you don't go for something too exotic, the biggest issues you will need to deal with are getting the specific gravity of your water correct, getting a gauge on where your pH is and getting your biological filter up and running.

snsc808 · #7 (**permalink**) 11-01-2007, 03:05 AM

OH snap here i go...

so lets start with cycling The cycling process will undoubtedly be the most tense time for you and your new tank. So below is a guide to the first few days and months of your tank.
Over the course of the first 4 to 6 weeks your tank will demonstrate the typical cycling process (which is described in detail the BEGINNER FAQ). During this critical time, you should carefully watch the ammonia and nitrites in the tank. If the fish look stressed (darting around the tank, gasping for air, or not moving at all), a partial water change might be in order. If the fish look really bad, they may have to be moved to another tank or storage location until the toxicity of the tank is reduced. You should always keep salt mix and dechlorinated water on hand for impromptu water changes.

Along with monitoring ammonia and nitrites, you should keep a careful eye on the pH (you should always watch the pH, not just during the cycling process). The pH will tend to fall over time and needs to raised. The easiest way to raise the pH is through additions of sodium bicarbonate (i.e., baking soda). Mix a tablespoon or so of baking soda in a cup of dechlorinated water and slowly add it to the tank. Slowly means over the course of an hour or two. Baking soda will cause a short term drop in the pH, but will bring the pH to 8.2 over time.

As time marches on, water will evaporate from the tank and need to be replenished. The water that evaporates is freshwater and needs to be replaced with freshwater. You should never use saltwater for makeup water (unless you want to increase the salinity of the tank).

As the tank matures, algae will start to grow (usually around week 2 or 3). Typically brown algae, otherwise known as diatoms, will be the first algae that shows up in the tank. Brown algae will usually cover everything in the tank and need to be cleaned every week or so. With time green algae should overtake the diatoms and the brown algae will disappear all together. If it doesn't, there might not be enough light for the green algae to out-compete the diatoms.

After the tank completes cycling, it will be time for your first major water change. Although the amount of water you change is really up to you, it should be a significant portion of the water. Something like 40 to 50%, with 100% of the water not being uncommon. When changing the water, the gravel should also be cleaned. There are many commercially available gravel cleaners on the market.

The chemistry of the change water should be as close to the tank's water as possible. The pH should be within 0.2 and the temperature should be within 1-2 degrees. It is better to have the change water warmer than cooler (imagine the shock of a cold shower and you will know how your fish will react to cooler change water).

After the first water change you should establish a regular maintenance schedule. Something like monthly water changes, weekly algae scrapings, and bi-weekly feedings are normal.

A note on nutrition. Saltwater fish need varied diets. Constantly feeding your fish flake food may provide it with all the necessary vitamins and minerals, but this may ultimately cause a nutrition deficiency of sorts. Alternating between cut up shrimp and clam, flake food and frozen/live brine shrimp makes a good combination. Herbivorous fish, like Yellow Tangs, also like romaine lettuce or Nori (an algae regularly sold at oriental markets) on a regular basis.

_Sam_ · #8 (**permalink**) 11-01-2007, 03:10 AM

thanks. that really helped a lot.

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