MITES!!!!

pathfinder36 · #1 (**permalink**) 04-09-2004, 03:37 PM

Earlier in the week I was asking where I could get Black Knight, and I've since found out that you CAN'T buy it any more! Aerisol Inc is being sued by its competitors for the type of propellant that Black Knight uses. They are also sueing the retailers (which is whats happening to ProExotics).

Unfortunately, I still have mite, and want to use something that isn't going to mess with my RTB's head! Any suggestions?

BTW, here is a pic or two at feeding time (she is still a baby... only had her for a few weeks)

Thanx for the input!

herpkingdom · #2 (**permalink**) 04-09-2004, 03:59 PM

I use De Flea. I is not an aerosol but a pump action spray that can be applied directly on the snake without fear of any side effects or harm.

http://www.herpkingdom.com/caresheetindex.html

Here is a link to me acresheet page that contains a page on Mites.

Good Luck and remember, treat everything! Cages, snake, rack, substrate, even the area around the cage.

And not to sound so self-promoting...

here is another link for info on mites
http://www.rodentpro.com/qpage_articles_02.asp

JuliusSqueezer · #3 (**permalink**) 04-09-2004, 04:09 PM

Mites are fun

Here is what one looks like at 100x with the blood it just consumed off one of my snakes squashed out of it.

pathfinder36 · #4 (**permalink**) 04-09-2004, 04:19 PM

Thank you!
So use Prevent - a - mite on cage, ect.
And De Flea on the snake.
Don't worry, self promoting or not, any input is greatly appriciated!

pathfinder36 · #5 (**permalink**) 04-09-2004, 04:21 PM

Evil little creatures! Thnx for the pic

JuliusSqueezer · #6 (**permalink**) 04-09-2004, 04:43 PM

If you spray permetherin in the cage...you don't need to deflea too but maybe it's ok...I really don't know what happens when these two chemicals combine.

Ed_r · #7 (**permalink**) 04-09-2004, 04:52 PM

Don't change the substrate when you use the prevent a mite. the chemical on the substrate is what will continue to kill the mites, dont forget to retreat in 14 days, thats when the mite eggs hatch. If you dont retreat, then you will be infested again.

BTW it looks like that mouse is a too smal for that snake. should probably be eating small rats.

pathfinder36 · #8 (**permalink**) 04-09-2004, 05:20 PM

She eats 2 small hoppers per week.
As far as the prevent a mite, the site said NOT to leave the chemical in the cage because it can cause neurological damage to the snake over prolonged periods.
Basically:
-remove substrate
-treat the cage and cage items w\ preventAmite, let it sit for an hour or two
-treat the snake w\ de flea (no harm to snake)
-thouroughly clean the cage and cage items, replace substrate with newspaper
-repeat cage cleaning every 3-4 days for three weeks
-repeat snake trreatment every 2-3 days for three weeks
-put usual substrate back in, but bake it first to kill off any of the little blood suckers

JuliusSqueezer · #9 (**permalink**) 04-09-2004, 05:27 PM

what site said that? That's wrong. The whole point is that it PREVENTS mites. It acts like a sorta flea collar...it will keep killing and protecting for a couple of weeks...changing the substrates defeats the whole purpose. I buy bags of Cypress...pour it in a trash can with permetherin spray sprayed between several layers. Then when I clean cages or set up new ones, I spray a bit in each new cage. It will only harm your snake if they breath the vapors when it is freshly sprayed or if you spray it in the water and frankly, it would likely take quite a bit in the water to harm them.

JuliusSqueezer · #10 (**permalink**) 04-09-2004, 05:42 PM

Quote:

She eats 2 small hoppers per week.

A new born boa should eat either a hopper mouse or a pink rat for the first few meals and then increase from there. Your snake would benifit greatly from eating weaned rats at this point...one a week till it grows and then a little larger rat...and so on. Those little hopper meals are not promoting enough growth. If you stretch a dead hopper mouse out next to your snake (I don't really suggest trying this unless you want to be bitten) that mouse is a good bit smaller than your snake's girth and not enough...young rats are far more nutritious than mice. Switch to rats and you will see very marked improvment.

pathfinder36 · #11 (**permalink**) 04-09-2004, 05:47 PM

http://www.herpkingdom.com/caresheetindex.html
RTB Staff

pathfinder36 · #12 (**permalink**) 04-09-2004, 05:49 PM

Thanks for the input! Never had a snake before, so I appriciate it.

pathfinder36 · #13 (**permalink**) 04-09-2004, 05:49 PM

At first, I was at the mercy of pet shop information, until I found this site

toker · #14 (**permalink**) 04-09-2004, 05:51 PM

Quote:

At first, I was at the mercy of pet shop information

That is a bad place to be... been there, NEVER want to go back

pathfinder36 · #15 (**permalink**) 04-09-2004, 05:52 PM

No kidding!

JuliusSqueezer · #16 (**permalink**) 04-09-2004, 06:04 PM

Herpkingdom aka Jim is a great guy and his method will probably work. But it is not the instructions from the product in question (P-A-M) and so the instruction on his page are HIS method. If you or Jim don't feel comfortable leaving the product in the cage, that is certainly your right to do what you feel is best. However keep in mind that is not it's intended method and by removing the substrate and cleaning the cage, that would explain the need for all the further drastic action. It is my opinion that less work = less stress on the snake. When used as directed, I have never heard of a single case of permetherin causing harm to a snake. I have used it for quite some time quite generously in my snake room of 50 or so cages...never had an issue with it here.

The method prescribed by the distributor for reptiles is as Ed_r stated above. It may prove one day to be wrong too...who knows? Not too long ago pest strips were the rage as were hot rocks...but right now it seems to be a really good method and product and has not proven to be in any way harmful as long as used as prescribed.

herpkingdom · #17 (**permalink**) 04-09-2004, 06:18 PM

Brett is correct.. that is MY preferred method of killing mites. I had a bad experience with both PaM and BK. Both of which cause severe nuerological damage to some snakes with the end result being death! Now granted these were all baby snakes who came in contact with the residue from the spray, but I don't want to take any chances with any adults whom I had many times more money and effort tied up in.

So this is MY preferred method. There are many others out there, I just happened to be the first to post this time

Ed_r · #18 (**permalink**) 04-09-2004, 06:18 PM

Only reason i suggest larger prey is in your picture, the boas head looks wayyy larger than the mouse. It appears the snake is NOT a newborn. Prey needs to put a little bulge in its belly.

As Julius said If that method works for Jim, then great, just sems like it could put allot of unwanted stress on your snake. The method I described is what is on the prevent a mite can. It's served me will, I got mites once followed the dirrections to a t and no more mites.

There are many diferent remedies for mites. Not all are wrong, and some are better than others. that was just my way.

pathfinder36 · #19 (**permalink**) 04-09-2004, 06:32 PM

2 hoppers puts quite a buldge in her! She really isn't that large. In the picture, her head is tweaked from trying to swallow the mouse. The mice are about the same size as the girth of the snake.

Do you still hold to the weaned rats?

JuliusSqueezer · #20 (**permalink**) 04-09-2004, 06:39 PM

Yes...rats are better all around. I understand that in some markets, various rat sizes are hard to come by and mice are easy to find...and rodent pro orders only seem to be feasable for large orders because of shipping cost...but if you can get them, appropriate sized rats will make your snake grow up big and strong like Hulk Hogan. Peewee Herman has his talents too though. I'm not knocking the little guys. LOL

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