Dont ya worry about that,i am giving handout caresheets that i wrote to anyone intrested,or buying heck anyone who wants one can take one (selling them at herp meetings) I want them to be well informed,not like some breeders who just want to dump them on people. Infact while we are on this subject,here is the caresheet i will be handing out ( i wrote it ) if anyone wants to make any comments or correct any wrong info or mis-spellings please do! [img]modules/Forum/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]
here it is...............
Leopard gecko care information
Appearance: Leopard gecko's are a Medium gecko from Pakistan,India and surrounding country's. They are yellow in color,with black dots. They have plump tails,have black bands as babys on their body and tail,as they grow they lose the banded coloration and it turns to spots. They have a pink fleshy tounge.
Unlike many geckos,they have a very noticable outer ear and eyelids.
Selection:Choose a healthy,strong looking baby. The tail should be thick,and the gecko should be alert. Most healthy untamed babys will sprint and try to get away. They may "bark" when picked up,this is more of a squeeking noise. You may ask the breeder/petstore to put a cricket in the cage to make sure they eat. Choose a Captive born,this should not be hard,as most Leopard gecko's are captive born. Wild imports will carry parasites,be very flighty and might refuse to eat.
Housing: A 10 gallon tank is considered a "minimum" per adult gecko. a 20 gallon would be good for up to 3 gecko's
a lid is required put atleast 2 hide's per gecko. A Reptile Hammock will usualy be put to good use. They like plastic plants and they also look good. Paper towels are a good substrate for babys or adults,sand is a good substrate for full size adult geckos.
Size: Leopard geckos are born at 2-3 inches and 6-10 grams. As adults they mature to be 8-10 inches,and 40-70 grams.
Temperment:Leopard geckos may be flighty as babys,but tame down to be awesome pets as adults. If a leopard gecko is going to be for your kid,always supervise. They are very reluctant to biting and it rarely happens.
Heating & Lighting: No UV lighting is required for these noctural geckos.
80 degree's on the "cool side" (the side of the tank with no heat source) 85-88 warm side(side with heating source) To heat the tank is a under tank heater. These can be bought at many pet stores. And should be controlled by a thermostat,or reostat. NEVER USE HEATROCKS they cause serious burns.
Feeding & watering: Dusting there food with calcium powder is very importent. Dust for every other feeding. Food food sources
are crickets,no bigger then the space between the eyes,and meal worms. Wax worms can be given once a month as treats,watch out these can be addictive to them,so be careful. Silk worms also make a great food.
Other: If you need any other help,feel free to e-mail me anytime at
Boaguy12@redtailboa.net,or visit GeckoIsland.com or Redtailboa.net and there will be plenty of people ready to help you! I have found these sites to be great help and great people.
John
