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Old 02-04-2005, 06:37 PM
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Unhappy CWD Spines

My Water Dragon's spines, on his back, seem to be growing big fast(in the past 3 days). They seem to be getting brown, I'm not sure if they are going to shed or if they are swollen from something. His crest is big and its fine, but I'm not sure if somethings wrong or if it's normal.
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Old 02-04-2005, 06:53 PM
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Hi nate ---how old is the dragon?
when you say they are larger within the past few days----is it very noticable?
Spikes will shed---does he appear to be in shed or getting ready to do so?
Also, what is your setup like---the lighting/heating/humidity/diet?
Any way you can upload a pic?
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Old 02-04-2005, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NicoleRussell
Hi nate ---how old is the dragon?
when you say they are larger within the past few days----is it very noticable?
Spikes will shed---does he appear to be in shed or getting ready to do so?
Also, what is your setup like---the lighting/heating/humidity/diet?
Any way you can upload a pic?
Sorry, no way of getting a picture, I got him June last year and i'd say he was a month or two old when I got him (judging from pictures I have seen) so he's just about a year old. It is just that his whole body is green, almost, (his legs seem to be shedding contantly), exept for his spines.

I have a 100W heat buld on one side, with an under tank heater below the warm side, it is around 77 I belive in the middle. I mist twice a day, and he eats about 5 crickets every two days and he gets a couple of mealworms every day as a treat, when he doesnt bounce against the wall. I can see his snout is suffering because of the ribbing. he has calmed down quite a bit from what he used to be like.
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Old 02-04-2005, 08:18 PM
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what size cage is he is?
does he have UVB?
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Old 02-05-2005, 11:33 PM
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He is in a 30 gallon tank, I am saving up for a big mesh one like they have for chamelions. He has UVA from his bulb and the vitamin D comes from the stuff I dust on his crickets. The sun comes through the window on his cage, so he gets some good sunlight. I have been looking for a UVB bulb, but i need another fixture and everything, I have to save up for it too.
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Old 02-05-2005, 11:53 PM
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Ok, well I can tell you tthe first thing you need to do is get a UVB bulb---no vitamin will take the place of a UVB bulb. The sun is completely void of uvb by the time it makes it way through the glass so that does nothing but offer some psychological benefit to the animal.
Also remember that when you are deciding on a cage make sure it has very large open mesh---the tight stuff (like what they use for reptariums and even screen) will filter out almost all uvb..you need to cut holes for the lights if you go with one of those cages.
That, and a mesh cage will not hold humidity at all and with CWD's it means alot.
Is the humidity and temps within proper range? They need anywhere from 70-80% humidity. The basking temps should sit around 100--I say "around" because different levels should give the animal anywhere from 90-110 in the basking spot. Allowing differences will give the animal a choice and choices are important for lizards.
Very clean water is another factor---what type of source are you using?
You really should not wait for the UVB lamp---for that size cage you can buy a 100 watt trex flood or even better a MAC industries 100 watt self ballasted bulb.
What substrate are you using?
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Old 02-06-2005, 04:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NicoleRussell
Ok, well I can tell you tthe first thing you need to do is get a UVB bulb---no vitamin will take the place of a UVB bulb. The sun is completely void of uvb by the time it makes it way through the glass so that does nothing but offer some psychological benefit to the animal.
Also remember that when you are deciding on a cage make sure it has very large open mesh---the tight stuff (like what they use for reptariums and even screen) will filter out almost all uvb..you need to cut holes for the lights if you go with one of those cages.
That, and a mesh cage will not hold humidity at all and with CWD's it means alot.
Is the humidity and temps within proper range? They need anywhere from 70-80% humidity. The basking temps should sit around 100--I say "around" because different levels should give the animal anywhere from 90-110 in the basking spot. Allowing differences will give the animal a choice and choices are important for lizards.
Very clean water is another factor---what type of source are you using?
You really should not wait for the UVB lamp---for that size cage you can buy a 100 watt trex flood or even better a MAC industries 100 watt self ballasted bulb.
What substrate are you using?
Ok, I don't have a humidity guage, but I know the humidity's ok, because a while back, when i thought he had a RI (he was holding his mouth open) I began misting more, and he seemed better( I am already familiar with the illness masking and whatnot). He is quite active so i assume I have the humidity right.

I have a water dish for bathing and drinking, about 20cm x 10cm, and a hammock with a water dish built in, under the light so he can bathe in warm water(boy does it ever take a lot to refill every day)

I have all the heat sources on one side, so he can move toi where is comfortable, teh ground is very warm, and I am using Repti-Bark, I forget who makes it. I use natural source water from a big jug and bottled mineral water(bottled at the source . I dont know much about bulbs, if you could explain the bulbs you have presented, more clearly...
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Old 02-06-2005, 04:18 AM
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About how much would it cost to get a UVB bulb set up?
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Old 02-06-2005, 05:29 AM
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A Nicole said, uvb is extremely important. The t-rex bulbs cost around 40 dollars average. If you're luck you can find them for less on sale. I'd be more worried about getting the bulb then about giving him mineral water. He doesnt need it. Regular tap water will do fine.
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Old 02-06-2005, 01:14 PM
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you can get the Trex for 35 at Reptile direct---but the Mac's are 39 with free shipping so I would go with the Megarays.....go to reptile direct...look under BULBS, then INCANDESCENT, then MEGARAYS. You can also go to ReptileUV.com and see the heat projectors and the bulbs and read up on them.
You need a dome light fixture that can handle up to 250 watts with a ceramic neck (you can get one at any homedepot or tool store). The you should buy the 100 watt megaray. Keep the bullb at one side of the cage over a branch that starts at the bottom and leads to the top, under the light.
Put the water pan in the middle, with an UTH under it for added humidity and to keep the water warm. Use cypress mulch for a substrate and keep it moist by totally quenching it the same day each week and lightly misting it as needed throughout the week. The UVB should be set for about 12 hours on a timer (14 in the warmer months).A heat projector, noct bulb or CHE (ceramic heat emiter) should be set to come on at night the same way the UVB bulb is set up except on the dark side of the tank....the same with a branch under it. This should come on exactly the same time as the light side goes off. The UTH should be on at all times.
Never let the crix or live prey free roam in the cage...use a small litter pan or clear glass pan for insects and food.
as you can see you will need a larger cage, not only for all this stuff but for the dragon as he grows and begins to require more space.
With WD's, one of the signs of URI's are gaping and as it advances fluid in lungs and perhaps a popping sound as they breath. If the animal is in early stages of the illness, it's possible to correct the situation through environmental husbandry changes. This is going to be impossible to do long term without a gage of some kind---for both temp and humidity. With this setup your temps should be monitored but I would say they are probably going to be fine for the winter months.....the humidity however can change in minutes. It's worth it to spend the 3 dollars on a gage for relative humidity and then save for one that measures eact humidity from radioshack.
Al these things are very important for CWD's.
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Old 02-06-2005, 05:23 PM
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Ok, I'm saving right now for a bigger enclosure but I guess i'll spend the money on a UVB bulb for now. I'm just wondering, with both bulbs on, wont it get too hot? We have a wood stove at each end of our house, and the CWD is upstairs and it gets quite warm. Our tap water is from a well, so it doesnt have too much chemicals in it, but it has a LOT of Iron in it, would that be bad for him? The UTH is on all the time and has been on since I bought it. I'll move it to the middle. I have been letting him hunt the crickets, so I guess i'll stop that.
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Old 02-06-2005, 07:37 PM
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yes with both bulbs on it will get too hot---that's why you will run one during the day and the heat projector at night.....not together.
Do you keep the uth under the water source?
Loose crix can hide---and they are nocturnal which means they will be up when your dragon is trying to sleep.....they can and usually will begin chewing on anything that can give them sustenence and that might include your pet.
If you use a clear lasagna tray--and keep some moist vegetable matter in there to keep them hydrated, well nourished and interested in staying in there you will have few problems with escapes.....
you can also try a variety of worms.
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Old 02-07-2005, 02:05 AM
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I put the heater under the water today. What happens to the UVA? is that provided in the night bulb, or heat projector? I have tried Wax worms, and he loves them, but the store we buy from doesnt allways have them in.
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Old 02-07-2005, 12:32 PM
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he loves wax worms because it's like hagen daz for lizards. I feed it sometimes but only as a treat....the nutritional value is very low.
small meals, supers, waxes, silks, goliaths, earthworms and roaches are all good to try.

UVA will come with your uvb bulb...that iwll give him what he needs to digest and metabolize vit D---along with all the psychological benefits of the sun.
The heat projector or CHE (whichever you choose) will provide heat at night with no light---which is what you want.
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Old 02-08-2005, 02:51 AM
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Ok, I currently have $30 CAD. I havent heard of silks or goliaths. I have given him earthworms, but only small ones that I have dug up, is it a good idea to get the ones that are used for bait, or would they be too full of chemicals?
Can't wait to try roaches
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Old 02-08-2005, 12:46 PM
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where do you live?
I used to live in NYC nd relocated last year. When I lived in the city I could not use wild caught worms because of all the spraying from above for the westnile...the soil was saturated with chemicals and I have not trusted it since.
Now that I live in northen NJ away from all that I feel better about it but with feeders I still prefer to buy them in bulk and gut load them---but that's just me.
I am looking for a local bait store to try buying them to save on shipping...this time of year the shipping is more money.
Dead head roaches breed readily ---as do many other types. I just can't hav them in my house
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Old 02-10-2005, 08:39 PM
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I live in Canada...in Ontario on lake erie, it is very far from somewhere where they would use pesticides or weed contol, but there are farms all around us so the fertilizer may have an effect. I'm going to get my dad to pick me some up from the bait shop in town. I dont know if they have them during the winter? Maybe if they use them for Ice Fishing.
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Old 02-11-2005, 01:05 AM
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yes, I just asked someone around here and he told me the local bait stores stay open for ice fishing so I have to assume that in your area this would also be the case.
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Old 02-11-2005, 01:34 AM
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ok, I have almost 40 dollars in canadian funds so, shouls I get the UVB set-up off the net or should I get it from a store?
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Old 02-11-2005, 01:39 AM
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ok, my Dad says they dont have worms during the winter, they use minnows apparently for ice fishing, and I was thinking, could I feed him minnows?
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