Nile Monitor Question

[SteveJor]

I just traded a cornsnake for a baby nile and have a question regarding the setup.

Do they need full spectrum fluorescent lighting or is a heat lamp OK?

The caresheets I found on the web all seem to contradict each other.

Thanks.
[addsig]

	Geek Auto Linker or Gallon Geek Auto Linker Gallon - United States liquid unit equal to 4 quarts or 3.785 liters

[telefrag]

Considering their natural history as active diurnal foragers, I would use both a full spectrum florescent and a heat light.
As both are quite necessary to their well being.

There is a bulb that incorporates both, called a dragon lite.

You may want to check into those.
[addsig]

[SteveJor]

I realize they are diurnal but I figured that they would get the calcium and D3 from being fed rodents to supplemet the diet which would do away with the need for full spectrum lighting.
It gets a day/night cycle from the window in the room allowing sunlight in.
[addsig]

	Geek Auto Linker or Gallon Geek Auto Linker Gallon - United States liquid unit equal to 4 quarts or 3.785 liters

[telefrag]

Well, theres lots of debate on the whole calcium/D3 synthesis issue.

Without UV light (which is filtered out by glass, and usually dissipates at more then 9 inches or so from a full spec flourescent bulb) calcium cant convert into D3, that was somewhat true last time I looked into it, I havent kept lizards for several years now, but when I did, it was daylight loving lizards, so lighting was very important.
I do know that most zoos and large breeders working with monitors still use full spectrum light in their husbandry practices, so that in itself tells me something about the need for it.
[addsig]

[LdyDrgn]

Hi Steve. Many breeders and keepers of v. niloticus and v. ornatus (among other monitors) have found they do not require UVB nor a photo period (you can leave lights on 24 hrs). I just hope you realize what you have gotten yourself into with this lizard. They get big and they do NOT tame. Better to say: With plenty of handling and being around each other, they become tolerant and accept your presence.... sometimes. LOL

As an adult it will need to be housed in something 8' x 4' x 4'. They enjoy climbing and burrowing as well as swimming, so branches, a tight, dark hide and a tub big enough to soak/swim in are a must. You will have to change the water daily as they will eliminate in the water more often than not and leave shed skin. Temperature ranges: ambient should be 85-95 and the basking spot 110-135 (yes, it needs to be HOT!) Substrate: clean dirt or you can mix clean dirt with cypress mulch 1:1. The substrate will help with the humidity levels which need to be 50-75%

Grab yourself Barron's book on Nile Monitors and peruse ProExotics site for info. They don't exactly provide much info for the Nile's anymore since they really aren't the best to keep. Good luck with the little monster. [img]modules/Forum/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]
[addsig]

	Ultra Violet Radiation B Ultra Violet Radiation B

[telefrag]

Well, I may be an execption, but I have had "Tame" nile monitors.
A few of them actually.

And despite what many believe, I still think exposure to UVB and a natural photo period is ESSENTIAL to many species of animals, especially monitors.
Just because we can deal with it doesnt mean they like it.
Unless Varanid husbandry has changed that much since I kept monitors, and a scientific metric to support any cases for use or non-use of UVB im going to stick with it.

As far as the size concerns go.. Im going to graciously avoid that conflict, as I see how it has been dealt with in the recent past. [img]modules/Forum/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]
[addsig]

	Ultra Violet Radiation B Ultra Violet Radiation B

[Ed_r]

UVB light can never hurt. Monitors much like snakes swallow the prey whole when they eat rodents. I too have read many times that UVB light is not required for carnivorous monitors. The insectavore monitors may be different. As LdyDrgn said I hope you have a very large space for it. They grow Big and they grow Fast. Also they have an almost insatiable appetite. I'm pretty sure Niles are either the 3rd or 4th largest species of monitor. Komodo Dragon, Croc monitor, Perenti (sp), Nile Monitor, and Aisan Water Monitor. The last 3 easily can hit 5-7' long.
[addsig]

	Ultra Violet Radiation B Ultra Violet Radiation B

[SteveJor]

So far so good with the little beast. No hissing, tail whipping, or biting (yet). It also seems really tolerant of handling. I plan on working with it to keep it mellow. Hopefully it won't turn into a beast when it reaches maturity.
They get big? I thought they max out at like 2 feet. [img]modules/Forum/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img] Just kidding, I knew what I was getting into when I made the trade. Believe it or not, the monitor is easier to get out of the cage than the corn snake was. That snake was fine out of the cage but man what a biter and tail rattler when you reached in for him.[img]modules/Forum/images/smiles/icon_evil.gif[/img]
Cage size won't be a problem. I have a spot downstairs for it when it gets larger and outgrows the 4x2x2 cage. I only hope he lasts in the current cage for at least a year.
I need to up the heat. I did not realize just how hot they needed to be. I am using cypress bale for the substrate and it enjoys digging in it. Oh yeah, it is a bottomless pit when it comes to eating. I wish my BP's ate like this thing.
Ahhh, to much debate about the whole UVB thing. I think I'm just going to install some endcaps into the ceiling of the enclosure and throw in a full spectrum light. It can't hurt (even though I think it is probably not needed).
Any other tips/suggestions on caring for the nile would be great. [img]modules/Forum/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]
Thanks.
[addsig]

	Corn Snake The Corn Snake or Red Rat Snake (Elaphe guttata) is a species of Rat Snake.

	Ultra Violet Radiation B Ultra Violet Radiation B

[LdyDrgn]

Offer it a varied diet.

Info taken from Barron's book on Nile Monitors:

Hatchling: 10 vitamin dusted crix a day. Will also accept mealworms and pinkie mice

Juvies: small mice or pinkie rats, snails and Madagascar Hissing cockroaches every other day. When feeding snails offer only those that are acceptable for human consumption. Wild caught snails can carry pesticide residue and can harbor parasites.

Adults: small to medium rats 2 or 3 times a month. Other times feed invertabrates or a prepared diet. Fish, crabs, crawfish/shrimp and small clams are good. Be sure to freeze food items for 3-4 weeks before thawing and offering as food. Continue to offer the cockroaches as well.

When ready to use crawfish, strip them of their claws and outer thorax shell. Place into a container of water and thaw in the microwave for about 4 minutes. Let cool. Large freshwater shrimp are also ideal if crawdads are out of season and difficult to find.

The 'prepared diet' is a bit long. If you want the recipe, send me an e-mail and I'll type it up for you and send it along. It is NOT meant to be the whole diet, but rather a supplement to everything else. I hope this has helped a bit... [img]modules/Forum/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]

[addsig]

	Crickets Crix

[SteveJor]

Thanks a bunch for the info LdyDrgn.

Here is a pic of the little one.


[addsig]

	Geek Auto Linker or Gallon Geek Auto Linker Gallon - United States liquid unit equal to 4 quarts or 3.785 liters

[LdyDrgn]

awww... so cute!
[addsig]

	Geek Auto Linker or Gallon Geek Auto Linker Gallon - United States liquid unit equal to 4 quarts or 3.785 liters