Timor Monitors

zimbabwepegasus · #1 (**permalink**) 02-13-2008, 09:03 PM

Hey guys,
I'm totally new to the monitor world, but my local herp store just got in some timor monitors and I'm absolutely in love. I understand they don't get big, so it seems possible....

I was wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of a good care sheet or just answer the basics.

1. UVB or no (and how strong)?
2. What size adult enclosure?
3. Basking temp/cool side (UTH or overhead)?
4. Humidity?
5. Eating habits- what & how often?
6. Friendly much?
7. Substrate?

And everything else I forgot! LOL

morti · #2 (**permalink**) 02-13-2008, 10:05 PM

1. UVB or no (and how strong)?
Nope. No monitors require UVB.

2. What size adult enclosure?
I keep mine comfortably in a 55 Gal Long. I would say a 4' x 2' enclosure would be bigger than any of them would ever need.

3. Basking temp/cool side (UTH or overhead)?
Basking spot at 130, gradient both vertical and horizontal, 85 degrees on the cool end.

4. Humidity?
55-65%, mist if actively sheding.

5. Eating habits- what & how often?
pink (and eventually fuzzy) mice about twice a week and/or crickets, mealworms etc..

6. Friendly much?
Friendly none. Flighty and skittish, but usually not agressive.

7. Substrate?
Cypress.

And everything else I forgot! LOL

If you forgot it, I did to.

DRZRider · #3 (**permalink**) 02-14-2008, 05:06 AM

Here are some of my observations on timors. Take them for what they are worth.

1. You can use UVB but it is generally thought to not be needed. I have heard that it makes the colors stand out better. I have also heard that if UVB is too strong it can hurt the monitors eye site. (who knows if either is true) I have a UVB light in my ackie enclosure for extra light, not for any health reason. It is thought that if a monitor has good husbandry and a healthy diet, then the UVB is not needed. I believe Razeraze had researched the use of UVB.
2. Make the enclosure tall. Timors are known to climb a lot. I kept one in a 4X2x4 for some time.
3. Basking spot should be measured with a temp gun and 130 is thought to be a good starting point to work with. The timor would appreciate as many temperature options as possible. 130, 120, 110, 90, 80, 75 etc. degrees
4. Timors are from humid areas. They will need high humidity.
5. dusted crickets daily is a good staple diet
6. Timors are know for the empty cage syndrome. A lot of the time you will never see it. It is possible for it to become fairly comfortable in your presence, but don't count on it. Ackies are much better captive dwarf monitors to keep in my opinion. They do try to bite if held. A timor is one of two monitors that has drawn blood from me.
7. I have never had one dig, but I have seen the get under thing on the floor. Dirt is a great substrate and hold humidity well. Leaf litter over the dirt will be appreciated also.

I could be wrong, but I do not think you will enjoy a timor very much.

Ed

razeraze · #4 (**permalink**) 02-14-2008, 04:21 PM

About UVB, I have not notice any difference in health how ever the monitors choose to lay under the uvb bulbs. Be sure if you are going to use uvb you research it, buy a solar meter, and get your bulbs as close to natural uW as possible. Also be sure there is escape from the u.v. that gives your monitor a big enough area where 0 uW is the reading, I accomplished this buy mounting a shelf at the desired height for the uW I wanted and the shelf simultaneously blocked the u.v directly under the shelf.

justine · #5 (**permalink**) 02-14-2008, 05:03 PM

i notice increased activity in both of my tegus when a good UVB/UVA full spectrum bulb. also, it helps with calcium absorbsion (i dont know how thats spelled). correct me if im wrong. it could be different with monitors.

peace

razeraze · #6 (**permalink**) 02-14-2008, 05:19 PM

Monitors get most of their D3 for absorption from the food they eat, like most carnivores.

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