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Old 09-25-2006, 12:04 AM
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Unhappy Stressed from Too LITTLE Handling?

Ok so I'm wondering if this is a really stupid noob question but I'm going to ask anyway because I'm getting really desperate...

I can't get my ball python Pudge to eat. Go Figure. We finally got him eating f/t rats in March (the 19th) and he was very picky about them for a little while. He only wanted small white rats even though he needed to be on mediums. That was fine until he quit eating. About mid May he decided he didnt want the smalls anymore either. We decided to try leaving a small in his feeding tub in with him overnight May 25th and due to my (now ex) boyfriend leaving the lid off the cage with the tub in it, he got out. We found him a month later, and he hasn't eaten since.

He refused food a week after being found. Has refused food since then. He is now losing signifigant weight. He has the same cage, heat source, hides etc. as he has always had. The primary difference in his life right now is that before his great escape he was handled 2-3x weekly for 15-30 minutes at a time. Since the escape I have handled him minimally to reduce stress since he was not eating.

He "hunts" in his cage like he is hungry, but you present a rat and he gets timid and acts scared of it. He balled up last week for the first time since I've had him (almost 2 years) while I was offering him a ft small rat. He will not pay attention to one left overnight or set on the floor of the cage. He has refused ft mice as well.

Now, if you reach in his cage for something (with or without a rat) he tries to climb up on your arm and crawl on you. Not away from you, just on you - around your arm or shoulders or whatever. He fights to be put back down and just wants to keep crawling on you.

My question - Is it possible that he is not wanting to eat because we have not been handling him very much? He was a rescue and used to be very picky about eating - you had to stand right there with him or he would not eat or even look at the rat (this was when fed live). If you walked by his cage and you had not handled him for a few days, he would come out of his hide and strain up to the top of the cage like he wanted to come out of it.

I have been offering every two weeks to minimize stress. I am about ready to offer him a live rat (yes, everybody who knows me is gasping at this point) because he has lost a lot of weight and I'm really worried about him.

I would really REALLY like to not have to give him a live rat, though I am almost positive that would get a feeding response from him. Does anybody think that the handling could be part of his problem? If its not completely ridiculous, I could try handling him every day or other day for a couple weeks and try feeding again. What do yall think?
I'm going nuts!
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Old 09-25-2006, 12:26 AM
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how big is the ball python. i just got a male from a friend that said it didn't eat for a year and i put him with a girl and they bred right away and that weekend it ate and has no problem since. i don't handle mine except for cage cleaning and check up.
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Old 09-25-2006, 02:08 PM
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I havent measured him recently, but I think hes 3 foot or so? He's been a short chubby thing. He's got breaks up and down his back and tail from someone abusing him before I got him and letting it heal wrong so he would be longer. I'm not even positive he's a male, because the place we got him from didnt know, and we were afraid to have him probed because of his broken tail (its broken and curls around right there).

and you might not handle yours very much, but Pudge is used to being handled often.
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Old 09-25-2006, 05:57 PM
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I don't think it has anything to do with "too little handling". All this can do is make the snake more aggressive (nervous or scared of you).

You need to take him to a good herp vet now for a check up for parasites, etc. If you are thinking of feeding live, and you are going to definitely try it, then go with squirming pile of rat pinkies, or small mice. Keep me posted as I feel this for you!
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Old 09-25-2006, 06:24 PM
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how big is the cage?

remember that ball pythons have really small heads compared to their girth....i'd only feed it mice if it's 3ft or so....open his mouth and make sure it's all clean in there, shouldn't have any darker spots.....should look healthy....
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Old 09-25-2006, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgd7280
how big is the cage?
remember that ball pythons have really small heads compared to their girth....i'd only feed it mice if it's 3ft or so....open his mouth and make sure it's all clean in there, shouldn't have any darker spots.....should look healthy....
I'd have to measure him because I'm really not sure of his length. He's probably a good 4 inches shorter than he should be because of all the breaks along his back but the same girth as he would be if he was longer. He is plenty large enough to take a medium rat no problem, and was taking live mediums regularly until I switched him to FT.

His last fecal (March) was clean, but I'm going to take him to the vet again the first chance I get.
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Old 09-25-2006, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CruiserMaiden
I'd have to measure him because I'm really not sure of his length. He's probably a good 4 inches shorter than he should be because of all the breaks along his back but the same girth as he would be if he was longer. He is plenty large enough to take a medium rat no problem, and was taking live mediums regularly until I switched him to FT.
His last fecal (March) was clean, but I'm going to take him to the vet again the first chance I get.

i've never went by girth on ball pythons because it's a general rule and since the head is so small compared to the girth, it's safe to err on the side of smaller

i had a 5ft female that was about 9" around but she only received small rats.....going by her girth, she could eat very large rats......but i never saw a reason to make them work so hard......there really is no benefit.....more frequent smaller meals allow them to digest it more thoroughly
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Old 10-11-2006, 10:32 PM
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I feed all my balls live, mainlyt because they can be picky eaters. The main difference though is that i raise chicks to feed them, which presents signifigantly less danger of feeding related injuries.If your in an apartment your screwed, but if you have a house and yard, a small cage to hold 20-30 chicks doesnt take up much room and you can store several months worth of feed. Chicks are usually cheap in comparison with rats,and cant really fight back.If you have room for a few large hens and a rooster you can always hatch all the food you want as chickens lay aprox 1 egg per day.THE FRINGE BENEFIT IS YOU NEVER HAVE TO BUY EGGS AGAIN.
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