Wild Caught Baby

amErika · #1 (**permalink**) 06-10-2002, 12:11 PM

I just went to get Flukers freeze dried crickets, I dont know what happened. I squatted down to gaze at the BP babies and as the guy asked if there was anything he could get me I said one of those. My baby was $29.99 because it was imported from the grasslands of Africa he said and he does not garuantee it will feed. I know this may be a difficult baby to bring to adulthood but it cried "momma" when I looked at it, what was I to do? I have had it home for two days and I have some questions:

I bought f/t pinkies, the guy said it was eating them (he also said he had only had the baby for two weeks); when should I feed it and how many?
The caresheet says 60-65% humidity; what is the best way to attain this?
There was a thread about handling babies during their first weeks at home; how often/much is opitmal for smooth acclimation?
I have f/t fuzzies from Rat Cafe; how do I know when it will be able to take them?
I thought snakes had no vocal cords; how did it cry "momma"?

Any suggestions would be wonderful because this is my first BP and my first baby.

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SnakePool · #2 (**permalink**) 06-10-2002, 12:17 PM

It should take fuzzies now. The only time a ball python needs pinks is if it is REALLY small. I switched my baby ball over to f/t rat pinks as soon as she would take them. Now she pounds rat weanlings like there's no tommorrow. Although she likes her privacy while doing so. I just lay them on top of her and she will eat when she sees that I'm not around.

Good Luck with your baby.

I love baby regius.
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Dr.Oviparous · #3 (**permalink**) 06-10-2002, 12:27 PM

I've never owned a ball (python that is [img]modules/Forum/images/smiles/icon_wink.gif[/img] [img]modules/Forum/images/smiles/icon_rolleyes.gif[/img] ) but I've always thought that the least amount of acclimation time for any herp is about a week. in this time I would only handle her when you have to. make sure you keep her away from the rest of the collection, and get her vet checked after the acclimation for any kind of parasites. it might be a longer time for her to get adjusted, wait to see what everybody else that knows more about balls than me. -Juggalo
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Seany · #4 (**permalink**) 06-10-2002, 12:54 PM

I'd also say give it fuzzies and make sure to give it lots of privacy while feeding. BP's are bad feeders at times, Wild Caught ones... even worse. Make sure to have her vet checked by a vet who knows his snakes and make sure to mention he's wild caught.
Enjoy him, they do make the greatest snakes!
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#5 (**permalink**) 06-10-2002, 02:34 PM

<TABLE BORDER=0 ALIGN=CENTER WIDTH=85%><TR><TD><font class="pn-sub">Quote:</font><HR></TD></TR><TR><TD><FONT class="pn-sub"><BLOCKQUOTE>make sure you keep her away from the rest of the collection -Juggalo</BLOCKQUOTE></FONT></TD></TR><TR><TD><HR></TD></TR></TABLE>

Very wise words. Direct from Africa with all kinds of non-native microbes - any captive bred (or not born in Africa really) snake in your collection will be at risk if exposed to this snake. Quarantine it for at least 120 days.

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SnakePool · #6 (**permalink**) 06-10-2002, 02:53 PM

I don't think it was actually wild-caught from africa. From a farm in africa maybe but not wild-caught.

But yes keep it away from your collection, in another room preferably.

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amErika · #7 (**permalink**) 06-10-2002, 09:22 PM

OK. I am going to feed the baby these six pinkies I bought and then move to the fuzzies. How does two pinkies a week sound for three weeks and then one fuzzy every seven-ten days after that? How does feeding the baby after it has been here for seven days sound? What about humidity, how do you keep it at 60-65%?
And, thanks, it will be quarantined for three to six months and taken to the vet as soon as i get paid.

Pics coming soon
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JC86 · #8 (**permalink**) 06-12-2002, 07:33 AM

Well when I bought my BP baby it was already on small adult mice, it had been on hoppers since it was born. I've been feeding my BP one appropriately sized meal every seven days, and he's on rat pups now.

If you are determined to get rid of the pinkies via him eating it, then that sounds about right, then I'd suggest going to hoppers (unless it's really small). Just remember the girth rule, stretch the mouse out and it shouldn't be any larger than the girth of the snake, and not much smaller.

Scott
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#9 (**permalink**) 06-12-2002, 08:06 AM

I'd start off with only 1 prey item in the first feeding. I like to make sure that they are going to keep it down np when I first get a snake here. After that ya can go with 2 prey items every 7 days and maintain such til it's like a year old about.

As for the humidity.. Just mist the cage some daily and keep the cover..covered up with something about 2/3rd the way. that works for me usually to keep humidity up some. You can also try placing a water bowl on the warm side of the cage for raising humidity too. Just make sure that you also provide water on the cool side for drinking as well.

GOOD luck with the new snake.
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#10 (**permalink**) 06-12-2002, 08:07 AM

OH duh..Once ya run out of those pickies.. Move on to only 1 appropraitely sized prey item for the snake at a feeding as well. Don't offer a 2nd prey item unless the snake appears to be hunting for quite some time after eating the first one.
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amErika · #11 (**permalink**) 06-14-2002, 06:24 AM

OK I have had the baby for a week and I put it in a paper bag with the f/t pinkie and nothing. What now?

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XzyluM · #12 (**permalink**) 06-14-2002, 03:32 PM

Humidity-50-60% is good. As for it not feeding, Royals are very picky feeders, especially from petstores. My Royal I got from the petstore is a very picky eater. As of yet, I haven't figured out any way to get it to eat. Try wiggling the prey item on tongs, might work like a charm.
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#13 (**permalink**) 06-14-2002, 03:38 PM

What time of day/night? Or was it in the bag overnight?

Sometimes Royal pythons like the ambush tactic, where they can strike out at prey from the security of a hide box. Dangling the prey in front of the hide once the snake has been in the hide for 30 minutes or more...

you could also try braining the pinkie with a pin...

you could also try to get an annoyance strike by tapping the snake about a 1/3 of it's length down from it's head with the prey item.

I would separate each tactic by at least 3 days

What fails today, may work tomorrow, so the bag feeding might work next time...
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#14 (**permalink**) 06-14-2002, 03:41 PM

Oh, maybe he's hungry for a steak and you're offering finger foods. Perhaps a larger (within reason) prey item might work (not knowing the snake's size)

Also, he might require (shudder) live prey, royals seem to be notorious for that...but I'd try all the other options first.

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amErika · #15 (**permalink**) 06-15-2002, 07:47 PM

Ok, what if I get him a seperate feeding box with a hide in it, put him in there for half hour and then start the rat dance in front of the hide. How small of a feed box do they need? I know they like privacy and security. Is the size of the feed box crucial? And what is the best time of day? I tried at about 8pm.
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XzyluM · #16 (**permalink**) 06-15-2002, 09:37 PM

Depending on his size, get a rubbermaid container big enough so he has some room to move around in. Royals are noctural like most snakes and hunt at night. 8PM sounds like a good time to me.
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amErika · #17 (**permalink**) 06-19-2002, 06:45 AM

OK. So I broke down and fed the baby two live pinkies today. I tried giving the baby a hide and doing the rat dance with tongs but the baby would not go into the hide and ran away from the pinkie when I did the rat dance with the f/t. I left the f/t pinkie on the baby and left it alone for awhile and nothing. I want to get it's stool tested for parasites so I broke down today and fed it live. becuase I need some poopie samples. I will try braining the f/t pinkie in 7-10 days and seeing if it will take that.

Oh and I named the baby Aiden.
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cb76 · #18 (**permalink**) 06-19-2002, 07:23 AM

hi all!

a vet check is a good idea. just in case.

these guys are definitly wild caught!! you have to see the way they burn the grass to draw out babies and adults! farming, yeah right!

either way a royal baby is no problem at all! what they are saying with the wild cuaghts goes for older royals.

first off- i hope you gave it a period of adjustment.

second- absolutly make sure your husbandry is correct- temps and humidity. i recomend a lil' higher in humidity. if you can bring it to 70- thats awesome.

there is nothing wrong with feeding a snake live food- as long as it cant hurt the snake. with a new import they may actually need this! they arent used to a human putting a f/t pink for them to eat.

that brings up another point! get rid of those pinks- they are garbage. a newly hatched royal will eat a mouse! a small one up to adult!

i have yrs of experience with royals and 1 in breeding- i have noticed they will ignor pinks! when shown a small mouse (hopper) or an adult (if they are big enough) they took them with force!!! just attacked them and swollowed!!! [img]modules/Forum/images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif[/img]

try a hopper. if it ignors it- try a few days later (up to a week). in the meantime dont handle- i know its hard [img]modules/Forum/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img] but sometimes we gotta do it.

i dont know, but from the last post, what i got from it, was it fed with a live rodent-- did it???

also, royals are shy. i would feed them in their encloser for a lil' while ('till they are established) before shocking them and putting them in a plastic tub.

what i also did was offer food to them while they were in their hides. i just pre-killed a mouse and waived it in front of the opening to the hide.

also, that paper bag crap is just a stressful way to offer food. MY OPINION, BUT IF THE SNAKE DOES NOT WANT TO EAT, IT SHOULDNT STAY WITH IT IN A BAG.

also what lori said is good for the feeding! follow it. you'll be on rats before you know it!

good luck
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amErika · #19 (**permalink**) 06-19-2002, 10:36 AM

cb76:

Aiden had a 10 day period without handling or anything and after that it has not been handled much at all.

I have been keeping the enclosure well humidified, half of the lid is covered and I spray it everyday.

Yes, Aiden took two live pinkies without hesitation.

About feeding in the enclosure, 1) the baby does not really go into its hide, it hides behind a branch, 2) are you talking about f/t, 3) what about getting substrate in its mouth (what I have is safe for digestion but I'd like to avoid that), and 4) how long do you suggest feeding in the enclosure?

Now, prey size, I have f/t fuzzy rats from Rat Cafe. How exactly do I know when the baby is big enough for them?

What temps do YOU recommend?

Is it necessary to have a day light even though they are nocturnal?

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amErika · #20 (**permalink**) 06-19-2002, 11:10 AM

I found this in the caresheet on RTB:

The rule of thumb is that the food item should be equal to, or slightly thicker than the widest part of the snake's body.

I found this in the carsheet on Kingsnake:

the snake identifies prey by the scent, color, size, movement, and temperature. If the Ball Python feels that it's in a safe location and won't be molested during the eating process, it will bite and coil around the intended prey item

I think my fuzzies are not too big but how can I teel is the temp is ok? I have not got this f't thing down yet.

_________________
<b>"You are only young once, but you can be immature forever." -- Barbara Murphy

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