Crested Gecko Caresheet (Rhacodactylus ciliatus)

Crested Gecko Caresheet (Rhacodactylus ciliatus), Gecko-Guy

Background info

Lets get started with some background info. Crested Geckos are from an island called New Caledonia. They are nocturnal animals. Crested Geckos are unique because they possess prehensile tails. They use their tails in a monkey-like fashion to hold on to things. They have spikes or crests leading from their eylids to the base of their tails. These crests are not as evident in hatchlings as they are in adults. Crested Geckos get to be about eight inches long.

Housing

Hatchling Crested Geckos can be housed in simple 10 gallon aquariums. Adults can also be housed in 10 gallons but i suggest at least a 20 because these geckos love to move around. They do not require a water dish, most cresteds do not drink from them. A fake plant or real plant should be utilized as cover. If you decide to go with a live plant, get a pothos plant. You should also provide a variety of sticks or vines because this species is mainly arboreal and will spend most of its time off the ground. These geckos usually do not require a hide because they tend to stay off the ground. Just make sure there are enough leaves so that the gecko can nestle itself between them. Also, make sure to provide a secure lid. They can climb many surfaces including glass.

Substrate

You can use a variety of substrates for these geckos. Newspaper, paper towls, soil, peat moss, and coconut fibers can be used. For hatchlings, it is better to use newspapers, paper towels, or a bare bottom tank so that they do not accidentally ingest the substrate. I personally use coconut fiber because it holds humidity well.

Lighting

Crested geckos need 12 - 14 hours of daylight. UV lighting is not necessary if D3 supplement is used. These geckos require vitamin D3 or they will become susceptable to certain diseases. If you decide to go with UV lighting, you should buy the T-rex bulb. The price is a little steep, but it is well worth it. UV is better than supplement because there is no chance of an overdose.

Temperature and Humidity

The temperature during the day should be about 72- 82 degrees F. At temperatures above this, they will begin to become stressed. At night, temperatures should remain in the 70s. I keep day time temps at 80 degrees and night time temps at 72. Humidity is very important when keeping cresties. They require about 60% humidity at all times. Failure to keep the humidity up can result in the dehydration of your geckos. Humidity can be achieved by filling up an old windex bottle with water and spraying the enclosure twice daily. Make sure you clean the bottle first or you could have a poisoned animal on your hands. The geckos also drink the water that you spray off the walls of the enclosure and the leaves. If you live somewhere where the temps arent usually like this, a heat bulb or under tank heater can be easily used. If temps tend to drop greatly at night, use a nocturnal red light or black light bulb.

Feeding

These geckos are omnivorous, eating insects and fruit. When they are hatchlings, appropriate sized crickets should be fed every other day. Fruit baby food should be fed once a week. As they get older, they will start to eat more fruit. When they are adults, they need to eat baby food 3-4 times a week and crickets twice a week. The baby food should be peach, apricot, apple, mango, or any other fruit that does not contain citic acid. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT USE CITRUS FRUIT! If you are not using UV lighting, dust your geckos food every other feeding with a supplement containing D3. If you are using UV, dust the food every other feeding with a supplement that DOES NOT contain D3.

Handling

Most geckos cannot be handled because of their fragile skin, but, guess what? These geckos can! I do not suggest handling them much when they are babies because their skin is relatively soft at that point. When they are juveniles and adults you can handle them and they will not get stressed out. Just make sure that you do not pull on their tails because they can detach them when threatened.

I think that about concludes this caresheet. Hope you found it helpful.

Yours,

Ben Diamond (aka - Gecko-Guy)

Photo credit: http://bawaaherps.com/