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<!-- google_ad_section_start -->Viper-tail Gecko (Teratolepis Fasciata)<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
Viper-tail Gecko (Teratolepis Fasciata)
Published by natas
10-08-2006
Viper-tail Gecko (Teratolepis Fasciata)

Viper-tail Gecko (Teratolepis Fasciata)


Written By:Jeremy Paulson



Description:

The viper-tail gecko or viper gecko (Teratolepis Fasciata) are small, mainly terrestrial geckos from the desert regions in Pakistan. They are generally tan in color on the top with white bellies. On their back, they sport large cream color vertical lines with white spots going horizontally. The tail is short and triangular, similar to a spade. They are one of the smaller geckos available in the pet trade. Hatchlings usually measure less than 1 inch in total length; full grown adults rarely get bigger than 4 inches total length.


Housing:

Due to their small size, a small enclosure, such as a 10 gallon aquarium, will be adequate. Make sure the enclosure has a secure lid, as viper geckos will climb. For substrate, playsand or calci-sand will work fine. I have heard of some that have used coconut fibers as well. Be sure to provide a shallow water dish with fresh water replaced daily. Misting the cage twice a week is also beneficial. As with most geckos, having places to hide and bask are a must. Because of their small size, in the wild they are hunted as food. They MUST have places to hide to feel secure and reduce stress. Decorating your enclosure with rocks, driftwood, and fake plants looks good and at the same time provides hiding spots. Be sure to have hides on both sides of the enclosure.


You may keep viper geckos by themselves or in groups. Males should not be housed together to keep down stress levels and to prevent excessive breeding to a female.


Heating/Lighting:


Because reptiles thermoregulate, you must provide a range of temperatures within the enclosure. Hot side temps. should be around 90 degrees; cool side temps. around 80 degrees. At night, temps. can be allowed to drop into the upper 70's. I use a UTH (Under Tank Heater) and a basking lamp. At night, I simply turn off the basking lamp--the UTH should provide enough heat, depending on your personal indoor temps.


Food:

Hatchlings should be fed dusted pinheads or fruit flies. Adults should be fed small crickets (approx. 3 weeks old) and mealworms. Dust crickets and mealworms every other feeding as adults. I only offer mealworms as an occasional treat, about 20% of their diet. Mealworms have hard exoskeletons that may be difficult for vipers to digest. A general rule of thumb when feeding vipers is to only offer prey no bigger then the vipers head.


Breeding:

Viper geckos reach sexual maturity within one year. Breeding is usually fairly simple--if you have a male and a female, they will breed. Mating usually occurs at night. Females will start to show signs of being gravid--their abdomen will swell on both sides. Unlike other gecko species, eggs will not be visible. Eggs are laid around 30 days after successful mating.


Eggs are generally laid in pairs under dry sand or possibly under a hide. Carefully expose eggs and place them on dry sand. They should be incubated between 83 to 85 degrees. Hatching should occur 50 to 75 days later. A healthy female will lay between 10 and 12 clutches per year.


Note: When feeding a gravid female, be sure to dust all food to help replace vitamins and calcium she uses to form eggs
.


Temperment:

Vipers are generally docile. When handling, stay close to the ground with them as they are quick and could easily jump out of your hand before you can react. It will not take much of a fall to injure or possibly kill them. They make fun and interesting pets to watch and handle.
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