Savannah monitors are one of the most popular monitors in pet trade right now. The reason for this is because of their low price, availability and they are also very good in captivity. Don't let the low price fool you however. Be aware that most Savannah monitors are imported and are sick. If possible, buy a captive bred monitor, you'll spend more at first, but save alot of money in the long run.
The Savannah monitor is a medium sized monitor, it averages about 3.5'-4' long with a thick build. They are also well known for being very tame, almost dog tame.
Selecting a monitor:
Once again, if possible buy a captive bred monitor. If it is not possible look for a monitor that is alert, active, and filled out. Check for ticks, cuts, and mites. The eyes should be clear and the vent should be clean. Try to avoid animals that look sick, they can end up being very hard to care for.
Housing the monitor:
To save some money, start by building a cage that will last the bulk of the monitors lifetime. It costs alot more to keep building whenever you need more space for it. When full
grown it will need atleast 6' long and 2' wide. Ofcourse, the larger the better. When the monitor becomes full grown and stops growing length-wise, it is important that there is enough
room for him to roam around and get some exercise of it may become obese. Like many other reptiles, Savannah monitors can get themselves into very small places. Make sure that
the enclosure is secure and there are no holes it can squeeze through. A substrate of cypress mulch, dirt or news paper
can be used, however be careful not to use cedar, it can kill your monitor. A hidebox is a must for a hatchling Savannah monitor. They like dark and tight places to hide in. The hide can be removed when the monitor grows into adult-hood. A waterbowl and branches to climb on and exercise are also important for the health of your monitor.
Heating the monitor:
The Savannah monitor comes from Africa where the temps can reach very very high. During the day you will want to have a basking spot that reaches to about 110+F.
I prefer about 120F, this gives the monitor a place to bask and digest its meal. This is only a spot though, the ambient temperature of the cage should range from 85-90F and at night the temperature can drop to about 75-85F. A 12 on 12 off light cycle should be used, but heating through the night is important. Cold monitors have very slow metabolism and will not be very active. Heat can be provided using undertank heating pads, ceramic heaters or an infrared night bulb. Heat tape can also be used but make sure to use a thermostat.
I prefer to use ceramic heaters because they are alittle more natural and do not interupt the natural photo period.
UV or not UV?
Although many experts say that monitors do not need UV light, I do use UV lights on all of my monitor cages.
It hasn't shown any ill effects so I believe it only helps.
Feeding your monitor:
Most healthy monitors will eat any time you feed them. Savannahs definitly like to eat.
Hatchlings do best on crickets, super worms, small roaches, and the odd pinkie. Dust feeding insects every feeding for hatchlings, and every other for juvi's. Once the monitor reaches adult size, rodents should be used as a staple diet.
Any other questions email me at
erik@melanderonline.com
More monitor care sheets coming soon!
copyright Erik Melander - erik@melanderonline.com - Please do not re-use without permission.
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