Fernando’s or African Fire Skink

Fernando’s or African Fire Skink

(Mochlus fernandi)

Distribution
In the wild this species is distributed quite widely in humid forested areas in Western Africa. This species is also sometimes referred to as Lygosoma fernandi or Riopa fernandi.
Prior to getting this species research as much as possible and if possible spend time with a current keeper to see if this is the species for you, it is also worth joining your local reptile society/group as they will be able to give you hints and tips (and you may be able to do the same for them).
Size
This is a medium sized skink; some specimens have been recorded in excess of 30cm (12”).
Diet
This species requires a varied diet in captivity. Dog and Cat food should be avoided.
In captivity a varied diet comprising of Brown crickets, Black crickets, mealworms, mealworm beetles, waxworms and moths, locusts, pinkie mice, etc should be offered. Some specimens accept fruits, so it is best to offer these at least once a week just in case they decide to eat any. All insects should be gut loaded and dusted with calcium powder prior to being fed to the skink. It is best to offer food to this species every other day as an adult.
Requirements

• Heat Source: - The heat source should always be thermostatically controlled and guarded to prevent thermal burns. Heat sources, which can be used for this species, are reflector spot light (green or red) or ceramic heaters.
• Ultra Violet Light Source: - This is essential for this species and the best brand to use at present is the Reptisun 5.0. It should be positioned no more than 30cm away from the basking animal and left on for 12 hours daily. This should be replaced every 6-7 months depending on the manufacturer’s advice. Care should be taken if your reptile has unpigmented eyes (amelanistic or albinos or any other red eyed morph) as it can damage their eyes. UV lights should never be placed behind glass or plastic as this filters out the essential UV rays. Vitamin D3 supplements should not be used whilst UV lighting is used.
• Thermostat: - These should always be used on heat sources to prevent excessive temperatures damaging your reptile.
• Housing: - A well-ventilated dark wooden vivarium with a glass frontage is ideal for this species. Due to their shy nature the vivarium should be situated away from drafty, busy areas of the house and well away from any vibrations such as speakers, TVs, etc as the vibrations distress the animals. A Vivarium measuring at least 90cm by 45cm by 30cm (3ft by 1.5ft by 1ft) is adequate for a pair of these lizards. Males should be housed separately, as they are territorial towards each other.
• Wire Mesh Guards: - These should be fitted over all heat sources used in order to prevent any thermal burns from occurring.
• Thermometers: - One should be placed at either end of the vivarium. Never go by the temperature on the thermostat, as this is often incorrect.
• Hides: - These are an essential part of any vivarium as they provide the animals with an area to escape from the stresses of over exposure. Pieces of flat cork bark are especially good for this species, as they will dig their own hides and humid retreats underneath it.

Water and Humidity
A ceramic/earthenware dog bowl is best for these reptiles as they are harder for them to tip over. This water should be changed daily as this is also the water they drink. It is also beneficial to mist the enclosure lightly every day with tepid water to maintain a good humidity level. A humid hide containing damp sphagnum moss should be provided in order to prevent disecdysis.
The substrate should be slightly damp, but not water logged. Some areas should be kept dry at all times.
Temperature
A basking area, which reaches temperatures of around 29 to 32 degrees Celsius (85 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit), the cooler end of the enclosure should be allowed to drop to around 27 degrees Celsius (82 degrees Fahrenheit). At night the temperature may be allowed to drop to around 23.8 degrees Celsius (75 degrees Fahrenheit).
Longevity
Many of the Fire Skinks on sale are wild caught specimens; if captive bred specimens are bought then as with all reptiles these should live longer. If properly cared for this species can live in excess of 10 years.
Substrate
Good substrates to use with this species include (pine and cedar free) bark mulch, peat moss, potting soil. All the mentioned substrates allow burrowing behaviour to be carried out whilst aiding to maintain the humidity.
NB – A good Photograph can be found on http://owen.nhm.ac.uk/piclib/www/image.php?search=skink&getprev=62474
A distribution map will be added when one is located.
Recommended Reading/Useful Contacts

Stuart Dodsworth – stuartandlynette@dodsworth2005.wanadoo.co.uk
The International Herpetological Society – www.international-herp-society.co.uk
The British Herpetological Society – www.thebhs.org
Taxonomy Information – http://srs.embl-heidelberg.de:8000/srs5bin/cgi-bin/wgetz?-e+[REPTILIA-Species:'Mochlus_SP_fernandi']
http://www.pondturtle.com/llizd.html#Riopa - Info on lifespan.
http://users.eastlink.ca/~nshs/care_fskink.htm

	Morph A morph is a color or pattern variation that is proven to be genetic. Common morphs include albino, anerythristic, gentically striped, Hypomelanistic, and many others. Morphs also include combinations of simple traits such as "Sunglow" which is Albino and Hypomelanistic. These traits may be recessive traits, co-dominant traits, dominant traits, or created through selective breeding (ie Pastel).