Now that you have your frame finished, it's time to put the screen on it.
Lay the frame on the screen mesh and trim it with scissors, allowing an extra inch on all four sides of the frame.
The first place to staple the screen is on two of the corners. These are just to hold the screen in position to make it easier to start with the permanent staples which I have begun in the center of the long sides. Once the middle is stapled, you can remove the corner staples.
When you staple the second permanent staple, you want to begin the screen stretching by giving the screen a gentle tug while shooting the second staple in.
It doesn't take much of a tug, just enough to make the screen slighly taunt.
From here on out, give a gentle tug to the screen before stapling.
Once you have a few staples in the long side, begin stapling in the centers of the short sides, starting in the center of the sides and working towards the corners.
Don't forget, gentle tugs on the screen and to alternate between the long and short sides with the staples, so that the screen gets stretched evenly.
The staples don't need to be perfectly in line with each other, they will be covered.
If at any time, you drive a staple too close to the edge, or aren't happy with the screens feel, no problem, pull the staple out with a small flat head screw driver, tug and re-shoot the staple.
When you have the screen completely stapled all the way around the frame, and you are satisfied with its look and feel, run your finger along the tops of the staples, feeling for ones that aren't seated or driven all the way in, or not quite straight in.
You can give those a light tap with a hammer to finish seating them.
Now let's get the screen moulding ready.
Start by making a 45 on the end of the moulding.
Then placing the 45 on the frame so that it lines up with the frames inside corner.
While holding the moulding in place, mark the opposite corner of the moulding with a pencil.
This mark will be the inside of the 45, opposite of the angle onthe other end.
Go ahead and cut the remaining sections of moulding, for the other sides, using the same method.
TIP- Place the two long and short sections of moulding with their counterparts, and make sure they are identical in length. You can trim with a sharp knife if needed to ensure a good match.
You should end up with this.
Once you are finished with the moulding cuts and final trim, if needed, it's time to put it all together.
These are the nails I use for all of my thin moulding work.
Start a nail near the end of one of the longer section, not driving it all the way through yet. This will make the job of aligning the mould with the frame much easier, than trying to hold everything at once.
Align the mould and frame, then tap the nail in about halfway so that it is easier to align the rest of the mould for a perfect fit.
(Tapping also, as the nails bend easily)
Be sure the mould is aligned properly, then drive a nail in the other end of the moulding, driving it in all the way. You can drive the first nail in now and continue putting nails along the moulding, to secure it to the frame.
Once you have the first piece attached, test fit the other peices.
As you can see by the photo, I have also started the first nail in the short side.
Continue aligning and nailing the pieces on.
This is what you are wanting with the alignment, perfect corners.
When you have all four sides attatched, you can trim the excess mesh with a sharp knife, allowing the blade to follow alongside the moulding.
After trimming the screen, be sure to inspect the entire trim area for extra or missed screening.
They can be worse than needles if not removed.
Simply run the blade over them to cut them off.
Now your lid is ready to be used.
It can sit onthe tank with the moulding up or down, for two different looks.
The finished product in use.
