Live vs dead

Bo · #1 (**permalink**) 03-10-2004, 04:03 AM

Is it better to feed snakes rats dead or alive? Also my boa has only ate once since Ive had him. He ate a very small mouse. Hes about 5 ft long. He went through shedding a couple weeks ago and Ive tried feeding him several times since but he will not eat. I have a small rat in with him now. What can I do?

Ed_r · #2 (**permalink**) 03-10-2004, 04:15 AM

Dead prey is ALWAYS best. Dead prey don't bite back!!!

Live prey can and WILL bite your snake. Plus Live prey carries many parasites that WILL live in your snake.

A 5' boa at least should be taking Large Rats. Could be its not eating because they prey your offereing does not appear to be a likely food source.

Allot of it could be your cage set up. What are your cage temps? How long have you had the snake? What is your substrate?

eddie · #3 (**permalink**) 03-10-2004, 04:16 AM

First off.. get the rat out (assuming it is live) before it gets hungry or defensive and eats the snake.
Yes, it happens

Now for the question of live vs thawed.. thawed has several advantages, cheaper, doesn't bite, less parasite problems, convinient feedings..

Bo · #4 (**permalink**) 03-10-2004, 04:21 AM

When I got the snake he was eating large rats. The day after I brought him home, he regurgetated the rat he ate the day before. Since then hes only eaten the small mouse. Ive treid feeding him large rats and he wouldnt eat them. Now Ive got a small rat in with him. I dont know what to do. Im afraid if he does not eat soon he might dies..... it has been almost a month since he had the mouse and he had a large rat a month before that. Please help me.

LdyDrgn · #5 (**permalink**) 03-10-2004, 04:24 AM

Snakes can live a long time without eating. Please don't panic.

He likely regurged because he was moved too soon after eating. Check the temps in the cage and humidity levels. What substrate are you using? There are certain housing requirements that need to be met before he will eat.

Ed_r · #6 (**permalink**) 03-10-2004, 04:26 AM

Again what is the cage set up? Temps, substrate? regurge could be caused by too low of temps, and also since it was moved about allot the day after it ate, usually let them sit 2 full days before messing with them, or else it has internal parasites.

lets start with the simple stuff first? What are cage temps? and what are you keeping it in?

eddie · #7 (**permalink**) 03-10-2004, 04:31 AM

The move to your place very well may have caused the regurge, which can be rough on snakes, BUT since it has always eaten live, do NOT rule out internal parasites.
Get a fecal done asap as parasites can also cause regurges.

Environmental temps can also cause regurges, but I don't feel it mattered in this case, due to moving it after eating.
But just for curiosity sakes, what temps do you have its home at?

Eating a small mouse is good, especialy since it has regurged, so you may want top step it up from their in size to go easy on the stomach as it is quite possibly still stressed a bit and not quite replenished of its flora.
Scenting the small rat you have, with a mouse is a good way to possibly evoke an eating response, but for now, just get the rat out so it doesn't harm or stress the snake, whack it and freeze for a later feeding date and give the snake another week to settle a tad more before offering the mouse scented rat.

And oh yeah, be sure to get a fecal done

And welcome aboard

eddie · #8 (**permalink**) 03-10-2004, 04:33 AM

Umm.. guys..
we all typed at once again..

Bo · #9 (**permalink**) 03-10-2004, 04:33 AM

I have a 40 gal tank, the substrate is called Tropical Tettarium Substrate.... the tepms not sure due to not having a themometer at the time.... but I have a heat rock and a Vitalight I use.

Bo · #10 (**permalink**) 03-10-2004, 04:35 AM

I am trying to raise some rats ..... maybe it will save money down the road... I have two adults is it safe to put the baby in with them??

east_stingray · #11 (**permalink**) 03-10-2004, 04:51 AM

Heat rocks are a VERY bad idea. Long story short... they are notorious for shorting out/developing electrical problems. They can also develop "hot spots" (this is a design flaw) that get much hotter than the rest of the rock. These can badly burn snakes, who don't always know that they're being burned. Get a human heating pad and set it under half of the tank on med/high depending on which gives you the best temps. Also, are you feeding in the enclosure? Oh, and welcome to RTB.
-East

Ed_r · #12 (**permalink**) 03-10-2004, 04:52 AM

Oh boy cut the cord on the heat rock. Never use them unless you plan on cooking your snake for dinner.
Depending on your air temp in the room a 75w bulb in a dome fixture should get you the temps clost to what your looking for.

First and foremost get a digital thermometer. They are pretty cheap maybe 10.00 get the hot side temps to 88 degrees for it at the floor of the cage. Allow a cool side too like 78-80 degrees.

Your in for a long term commitment with your new pet, a little investment will go a very long way. Plus also start thinking of a much larger cage for it soon. a 40 gal, isnt going to hold it for long. Minimum cage size for an adult RTB is 4'Wx2'Dx1'H of course bigger is better.

thetupak · #13 (**permalink**) 03-10-2004, 04:59 AM

id deffently get rid of that heat rock they can burn your snake you need to get a digital or atleast a anolag thermometer and either a heat lamp,heat pad with a rheostat,or a ceramic heat emitter there should be a warm side of 88 and a cooler side this is inportant for the digesting proses

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