Hmmmm..
Let's see if we can get that boa eating for ya
Frozen food.. sometimes a snake will be picky about it as in whether it is thawed in a ziplock baggie or directly in the water so it is wet.
Also make sure the food item is warm enough to the snakes preferences.
I usually thaw mine in a sink full of hot water, several refilss to get them all thawed with one last refil just about 5 minutes before feeding time to ensure they are rather warm, but not too hot.
(don't want to scald the snake)
Here's a few more things to try.
Use some hemostats or BBQ tongs, grabbing the food item by the scruff of the neck or back and simulate a live rodent walking around.
Don't dance it too closely to the snakes face at any time or it could intimidate the snake to be scared of the food.
Whatever color food you are using, try a different color. Say you have always used solid white, swap it for a brown or a hooded (white and dark colors) rodent.
Feed at night. Many species are nocturnal and may prefer to be fed at night or in darkness.
Deli cup. Use a small lidded container with air holes, put the snake and the food inside and put it in the cage (keeps the snake warm) for a few hours to overnight.
Paper bag. Same idea as the deli cup, but a paper bag with small airholes, snake and food inside, folded and stapled or taped shut, placed in the cage.
Privacy. Some snakes can be rather shy, so leave it alone, or cover the feed tote/cage with a towel or sheet so that it cannot see you. In the wild, a snake in the process of eating is vulnerable to predators and until it gets absolutely used to you, it may believe you want to eat it.
Braining the food. Stick a needle or a sharp object such as a nail or a knife blade tip into the cranium of the food item. The scent can sometimes kick the feed response into gear for the snake.
Pillow case. Place the snake and the food in a pillow case and tie it shut, then place into the tank overnight.
Swap to a different food item altogether. If using rats, swap to a mouse. If it responds, and eats the mouse, follow it asap with a normal food item while the snake is still in feed mode.
Side tapping. Using tongs or hemostats, gently tap the snake about one third to halfway down its' body on its' sides. This will simulate a curious rodent and will irritate the snake into a strike in many cases.
Fresh whacked and twitching. Exactly as said. If this is what it takes to get it feeding, then so be it, but remember the chance for internal parasites and schedule a fecal in the near future.
Eliminate any temperature issues. Too hot or too cool of a cage can upset feeding response.
Shedding. Some snakes will eat in full blue, some will absolutely refuse while in any shed stage.
Trying too hard. If it refused feed yesterday, don't try again today, let it rest a day.
Too many times, typically in ball pythons and other wild caughts, trying too often can actually stress the snake to the point of refusing food.
Parasites. If you know absolutely 200% of what the snakes prior history is and it was fed frozen the entire time, then chances are, nothing to worry about.
BUT, if it has been fed live or fresh killed at anytime, there is a chance it could have internal parasites, which can affect feeding.
Save a fresh poop in a ziplock baggie, refridgerate it if needed, don't freeze!! and call your vet and see if he can do an exam on the sample if you drop it off.
Last but not least, the most important advice I can offer.
If any one of these techniques doesn't work today, it may just work tommorrow.
Don't give up, try all that ya need and repeat if needed.
