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new babies!!
12-02-2008 12:11 AM
Today 07:24 AM
9 Replies, 114 Views
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07-01-2003, 01:37 AM
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106540
i just got a new red tail boa i am trying at temps but the temperatures here are not helping me out the cage bottom is averaging between 80-90 and i cant get a basking temp at 95 i can get it above 95 around 98 and a lil higher or a below a cpl degrees it is a baby is it safe to have it a cpl degrees higher or lower than 95 if not i will have to try a lot harder i ahd a corn snakle before i gott his one till i went on vaca and a friend killed it if n e 1 could help me id greatly appreciate it hope i dont sound dumb about this thx josh
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07-01-2003, 01:47 AM
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106541
First off welcome to RTB!!1
Now... Boas do not need to be over 90 degrees
The hot side of the cage should be 88 degrees at the hottest. They should be allowed to have a cool side around 80 degrees. A night drop in temps is ok, but usually only necessary if breeding. How are you heating the cage? How big is the cage? How big is the snake?
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07-01-2003, 02:03 AM
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106544
cage is 3'long x 18"wide and 17 1/2" high is an old reptile tank i had figured this is good to start out with till i make a new one i am using zoo med basking spot lamp 100w but am realing can prolly go down to 50 and use these in winter this is same cage i had for my iguanna's at first but cant get temps right anywhere now the snake is only about 1-1 1/2 it is only a baby i read online from multiple sites that basking temps are to be around 95 but like my iguannas i found this site those who have the pets teach more than websites are good for info but not to solely use theres
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07-01-2003, 02:08 AM
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106545
is the cage wood? or screen all around? Yeah 100 w Spot is way too high. Since your saying your having trouble holding in heat I'm thinking its mostly screen.
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07-01-2003, 02:17 AM
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106548
no it is glass all around except for top i am havign trouble keeping temps low i moved the lampo high above the cage top about a foot to a foot and half btu more i think about it gonna go buy 50 and 75 bulbs tomorrow morning for it is hot in summer and in the winter here so am sure might need the 100's come winter
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07-01-2003, 02:19 AM
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106549
thx for the help o btw dont want to sound rude ment to put it in last post
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07-01-2003, 02:23 AM
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106550
NP I would stay away from "spot" or "flood" bulbs. they concentrate the heat too much and can cause thermal burns. Ask away when you need, thats what we are here for.
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07-01-2003, 03:11 AM
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106559
I see you never mentioned providing any belly heat. Do you have a heater under the cage at all?
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07-01-2003, 03:18 AM
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106560
I agree, would be nice to get the heat from both ways. I would be a hipocrit if I said thats the only way to do it though. The ones i do use only lamps(CHEs) for heat , the actual floor is 88 degrees, not just the air temps.
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07-01-2003, 04:42 AM
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106567
no i dont atm but will go out and get one tomorrow also i have another question i was told after they eat to let them digest the food for an hour or two before moving them back to there cages sorry is 2 and how many dasy after they eat before can start picking them up again with my when i was younger i ahd a corn snake and would wait a day or two does the same apply here or longer?
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07-01-2003, 11:02 AM
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106576
Welcome to RTB!
A regular human heat pad will work well for belly heat. Just make sure you allow approx 1/2" air flow between the pad and the glass so the temps dont get too high and burn your snake.
After a snake eats 30-60 minutes before moving them from the feed tub to the cage is fine. Wait at least 2 days before handling them after a meal.
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07-02-2003, 02:41 PM
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106635
ok i got the heating pad and bought a lower watt bulb non spot just going to buy some different watt bulbs seeing that winter can get cold here so this way i am prepared this is just a hot summer unlike last years right thx again to all whom have helped with this it is greatly appreciated and niffy thx you also [img]modules/Forum/images/smiles/icon_wink.gif[/img]
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