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badmrchris · #1 (**permalink**) 10-27-2004, 05:29 AM

Hello,

I just built a cage out of 3/4" Laminate board. The dimensions are as follows: 6' x 4' X 2', with a sealed shelf in the middle which gives me two compartments. I'll post pics after I finish painting it. I plan on placing my 7' Female redtail on the bottom, and my 5' male redtail on the top. However, I am unsure how to heat the cages. A friend told me to use a Radiant Heat Panel, but if I mount it on the ceiling of each cage, how well does the heat radiate under the snakes hide box? A guy at Petco told me that a regular under tank pad would work, like the ones I currently use in my glass terrariums, but I am worried about the fire risk, on the carpet and the wood. Additionally, how well would the heat radiate through 3/4" of melamine? I thought about using a ceramic heat emitter, but again, how well would the heat radiate under the hide box? Also, even with a mesh shield around it, wouldn't that still get hot enough to burn the snake?

Obviously, my 1st priority is not burning down the house and killing my roommates, snakes, and me. My 2nd priority is my snake’s health. I certainly do not want to burn them. My 3rd priority is price. Thus far, I've spent about $175 on everything, and really don't want to spend an arm and a leg getting everything else ready. I could care less about aesthetics. I live in Southern California, and the ambient room temperature varies from 60 - 85 degrees, depending on the seasons.

I apologize for my wordiness, but I really want to do this right. I would greatly appreciate any help I get.

Chris

pjmartin · #2 (**permalink**) 10-27-2004, 05:46 AM

A radiant heat panel would work best, and would actually do the same thing as a CHE but without sucking out all the humidity. Plus, it will keep your hide plenty warm. The undertank heating option is not to practical, unless you want to do some routing, plus -- and this may just be my perception -- there is an increased fire risk.

Oh yeah, and for the future, the guys at PetCo are a bunch of stupid [insert random four letter word].

JuliusSqueezer · #3 (**permalink**) 10-27-2004, 06:03 AM

Radiant heat panels would work or you could cut large vent holes in the back and heat with a CHE from the rear through screen on each level.

You still need heat pads too because the overhead heat needs to cycle off at night to give night time drops in temp but you don't want the whole cage to cool to room temp. My suggestion...heat pads on the floor inside on the hot side of both levels. frame around each heat pad with thin strips of wood and then cover them with tileboard/shower surround. It is laminated 1/8 inch paneling used to make cheap shower stalls or to put up in shower stalls and covered with tile. I build whole cages out of the stuff. It's awesome material...10-11 bucks for a 4x8 sheet. It lasts forever and is waterproof. You can find it at Lowes or Home Depot back where the paneling and pegboard is. Then caulk around it and hope your heat pads never croak or you will have to rip it all up and redo it....but even then, it's not the end of the world and should last a long time anyway.

badmrchris · #4 (**permalink**) 10-27-2004, 06:21 PM

OK, sounds good. If I use the wood framing idea with the heat pads, can I use a regular, run of the mill UTH? I did some research, and exo-terra's UTH does not get overly hot, and stays only warm to the touch, even under glass.

Stormyva · #5 (**permalink**) 10-27-2004, 07:07 PM

Yes you could still use any UTH or even a normal human heat pad. Which ever type of UTH or heat pad that you use you should still set it up on a rheostat or thermostat.

justcage · #6 (**permalink**) 11-06-2004, 07:10 AM

You can use flexwatt and place lexan or plexiglass over top of it and seal it with silicone. Make sure you have an air gap between the tape and the lexan. And a thermo is a must no matter if its overhead or UTH....

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