Need Help With a Feeding Issue

GregD · #1 (**permalink**) 10-23-2004, 08:38 AM

I just got my first Boa, well snake for that matter. It is a Red Tailed Boa about 20-22". I have never owned a snake before and this is my first as I said and I am worried because when I bought him, I was told that his feeding time is every Friday. So tonight, Friday night, I bought him a small feeder mouse and I killed it by striking its head and I put Merlin (my Boa's name) in my bath tub (that's what the reptile dealer told me to do) and put the twitching mouse by him. He wouldn't eat it, but the store owner told me that I can also put him in an opaque tupperware container upside down and see if that works.

I just got Merlin on Tuesday and I think he is still acclamating to his new surroundings/environment but I would think that he would still eat. Is this a normal problem or is there something wrong with him? Please help as I am worried about my Boa and don't want anything bad to happen to him. I have a heating pad on the bottom of the tank, the substrate on the bottom is just bark, he has a full and clean water dish and I even have a heat lamp on to keep the tank at the right temperature. It's around 85-90 near the heating pad and the heat lamp is right there too. Then I have the water and a big branch type thing that you buy at any pet store in there so if he is warm he can chill over on that side too. I was thinking that maybe the mouse might have been a little big but I am skeptical about that because it wasn't really that big, but maybe at his size he can only eat pinkys. Anyone have any solutions? Thank you!

Schwartz · #2 (**permalink**) 10-23-2004, 10:44 PM

You Should Give Them 1-2 Weeks To Settle In To The New Environment. I Wouldnt Feed In The Tub Due To Bacteria Between Your Family And The Snake, However In The Cage Or Rubbermade Container Isnt Bad. Try Not To Handle The Snake After Feeding To Much, And Make Sure You Put Him On Heat So That He May Properly Digest After Eating

GregD · #3 (**permalink**) 10-24-2004, 01:43 AM

I was under the impression not to cage feed due to the risk of the snake mistaking me for food on accident. How would i go about using the tupperware? turn it upside down and put him in with the mouse?

Schwartz · #4 (**permalink**) 10-24-2004, 04:28 PM

No, I Would Get Like A Sterile Lite Container And Poke Holes In The Lid, And Place The Snake In There With The Mouse.

muzixman · #5 (**permalink**) 10-24-2004, 05:44 PM

Perfectly normal for him not eating he is getting used to his new environment, give him some time too settle in, he will be fine not eating for a couple of weeks and then try again. And welcome to RTB.NET

python04slayer · #6 (**permalink**) 10-24-2004, 07:56 PM

Also, You should feed him something as big around as the largest part of his body, (probably would be a smally fuzzy rat or a big pinky rat for what you said his size was)

If you need help or have questions Id be glad to help so PM me anytime.

pathfinder36 · #7 (**permalink**) 10-25-2004, 05:22 PM

DO NOT FEED in his living enclosure if your substrate is bark of ANY kind. Boas can't digest cellulose. Accidental ingestion could impact or kill your snake. Give him at least a week to settle in before feeding. Also, try to switch to frozen/thawed rats. I would order either rat pinks or pups from www.rodentpro.com I know the shipping seems like a lot, but it actually calculates out to fairly cheap in comparison to pet store prices if you can justify ordering more than one bag at a time. Like python04slayer stated, the prey item should be about the same size or slightly larger than the girth of your boa at its thickest part. It may seem to large, but this "rule of thumb" will keep your boa healthy and well fed. We avoid feeding live prey, as live prey carry parasites, mites, disease and have VERY powerful jaws. A live prey item can permanently scar, blind or kill your snake. Minus the risk of biting, the same is true of fresh killed prey. Freezing the prey item kills all of those things that might risk the health of your boa. With frozen feeders, I generally thaw them in warm (not HOT) water fro about 30 min or so. Feel the head for cold, as the brain is the last to thaw. If it is completely thawed and warm to the touch, dry it off with a towel, then feed. I use a pair of hemostats (tongs) and make the prey item "dance" in front of the snake to generate optimal feeding response, although some snakes need to be left alone with the food for a few hours before they eat. Hope this helps!

stckinlodi · #8 (**permalink**) 10-25-2004, 07:32 PM

like pathfinder said feeding in the tank isnt a good idea since ur using bark! just try feeding ur snake in about a week or so! also what kind of bark is it some is harmful to snakes? well good luck and welcome to the site

pathfinder36 · #9 (**permalink**) 10-25-2004, 08:13 PM

Like I said: Boas cannot digest cellulose. ANY bark ingested by your snake is VERY bad. Some bark is especailly toxic to boas... like cedar for example. I actually believe that all conifer bark should be avoided as a substrate, and you should NEVER feed in the enclosure is you have a wood based substrate.

sn8kluvr · #10 (**permalink**) 10-26-2004, 01:32 AM

When I received my RTB, in the mail, I fed her two days after I got her. Also the BP, I recieved in the mail, I fed her one week after I got her. I also got lucky and have the best eating BP I have ever owned. The RTB is my first so I don't know how they normaly respond to eating, but RTB I,fed earlier, was coming out of the rubbermaid I feed them in, try to go for my hand. I use a pair of tongs to feed. The rtb also was goes after the mouse. The BP on the other hand, I have to do the mouse dance. That may work better for you. If the breeder was feeding live and told you he wasn't, then you may have to act like the mouse is still alive. I also feed stunned. So right after you kill the mouse put it right in the container and move it around, give the snake a second and then it is usually over. Good Luck.

Ed_r · #11 (**permalink**) 10-26-2004, 01:58 AM

Like what was said ealier feeding stunned is.. well better than live, but still carries the parasite risk. I've also seen stunned prey recouperate really quick.
Frozen thawed prey doesn't recouperate

Plus f/t prey has a 90-95% less risk of parasites, cuz the freezing kills them. Some BPs when accustomeed to stunned, can be difficult to switch over. But RTBs will redily accept f/t prey. I've even had them take f/t as their very fist meal after being born.

Unless you and your snake enjoy expensive vet visits, switch over to f/t prey. Make sure when you offer the f/t prey it is warm to the touch not cold. The heat on the body usually gets them going right away.

As far as feeding in the cage or in a tote, it really depends on the snake and your substrate. If you use loose substrate(bark,cybress, aspen) dont feed in the cage. If you keep your snake on newspaper sheets, you CAN feed in the cage. Young Boas at times will look for the opening door to mean food, but that goes away in adults in most cases.

My little ones I feed i a tote, My adults I feed in the cage.

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