Breeding Questions

Brandon28 · #1 (**permalink**) 06-15-2006, 02:52 AM

I have an adult leo that I think is gorgeous and I was thinking about breeding it. I was wondering if there is anyway to tell a male from female without taking it to a vet. Any tips? And yes, I don't know much about breeding leos but I plan to gather a ton of info before attempting so please don't chew me out! Thanks...

SoundUnsleep · #2 (**permalink**) 06-15-2006, 03:29 AM

The male leo has a bulge behind the vent (just where the body goes over to the tail) and there's a visible V-line shaped darker line of pores. In females that row of pores is present too, but isn't nearly that visible (and light in color) and she has no bulge.

Brandon28 · #3 (**permalink**) 06-15-2006, 06:03 AM

There's no bulge so my "SAMBO" must be a she. Thanks for your help....and any advice on breeding would be fantastic. I acquired her from an ex-roommate who took such bad care of her that I'm surprised she made it out alive. He fed it rarely (which was only like once a month), and it never had water. When he was kicked out of his apartment (before I lived with him) he moved everything out except for his gecko which he left in the abandoned apartment without electricity in the dead of winter until i went and rescued him. I've had her for at least 2 years now but she's such low maintenance that I never thought to learn more about her....just figured she's better off with me than with THAT guy. Anyways... Advice would be great!

SoundUnsleep · #4 (**permalink**) 06-15-2006, 06:43 AM

Leos don't need cooled to reproduce (although some breeders will suggest that to you). You said you had her since at least two years, so she's definetly mature. You also said, she was underfed - Check her weight: She should be around 50 gr. to reproduce. Check her tail: Plump? Great! She's ready!
Now, of to the mate: Make sure to get one that's at least 10 to 12 months old and has the bulge and v-shaped pore line (and is in good overall health).
Mating time of leos actually varies. It can start as early as January, or as late as April and lasts througout the warm season.
I would keep a close eye on the male when first introducing him to Sambo (the males are a little mean at times). When he starts biting her, don't panic as long as those bites don't leave any marks. He's simply getting himself and her in position to mate.
After mating sessions subside I would separate the two, because the male will keep bothering Sambo and she may stress out.
Since this would be Sambo's first time to reproduce, don't set the goals too high. There's a good chance you'll only have one egg for the first clutch (that's normal!!!). However, after mating Sambo will preserve the sperm and lay more eggs without mating again. After mating for the first time it takes anywhere from 2 to 6 weeks for eggs to be layed.
Gender of the babies depends on heat and incubation time. I only remember the one for mixed gender which would be 85 degree for 55 days.
Misc.:
Sambo may not eat shortly before laying her eggs, but she'll be hungry afterwards.
Can't think of anything else, other than incubating: Be VERY careful when handling the eggs to place into containers that you can place into your incubating device. Use something like damp perlite in the bottom of the container and position the eggs on it without rotating them.

bleeding_sarcasm · #5 (**permalink**) 06-16-2006, 05:24 AM

you dont really need to take out the male after mating. she MAY retain sperm, she could also continue to produce infertile eggs, and once you start her going, she wont stop that easily, which just takes a toll on her body,

make sure she is well supplamented, lots of calcium. a nice wet lay box. and let him hump away. once you see signs of deterioration, take the male out, and baby her. but if you continue to feed them well, they should be fine for the whole season.

40+ grams should be fine, 50 is sometimes hard to achieve. but yea, watch that tail weight, and make sure its always looking supple.

pick up the tremper leopard gecko book. has all the information youll ever need, and then some. www.leopardgecko.com www.geckosetc.com is a good site too. has info on genetics and stuff.

SoundUnsleep · #6 (**permalink**) 06-16-2006, 05:36 AM

Bleeding - Pure curiousity! I don't have the book and can't find it online (I'm probably typing it in wrong): Do you remember the temps for having majority females?

bleeding_sarcasm · #7 (**permalink**) 06-16-2006, 01:38 PM

www.leopardgecko.com is ron trempers site. when you go to the site its in the upper right hand corner. you can also find the book on kingsnake. its called "the herptoculture of leopard geckos" and is also refered to as the leopard gecko manual.

80 is for 100% female. sex is determined in the first 2-3 weeks. we incubate at 80 for the first while, then switch it up to 90 for color. since temperature also effects the melanin in the skin [i have to have explained this at like 10 times in this forum alone]

females incubated like this [hot] have dimpled pores, which can be easily mistaken for male pores when they hatch out, but with a side by side compairison its pretty easy to figure out.

i learned the hard way that... temperature sex determination isnt 100% since we incubated for female and ended up with 7 females out of 20, including both our raptors.

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