I need opinions on this care sheet I wrote for people who buy my boas

Dbutton · #1 (**permalink**) 02-18-2005, 08:37 PM

I have an upcoming show at which I will be selling my baby boas. I wanted to give out a caresheet to new owners to give them some guidelines for the proper care of their new boa so I wrote this up. I tried to keep it simple, easy to understand and too the point. I know that there are many other things involved in the care of boas, but I didn't want it to be a book since the average person will just end up glancing through the rest after the first page or two. Anyhow, I wanted to get opinions on it before I prited it out to see if anyone thought I had missed anything important.
Please keep in mind that this is just a guide for new boa owners and not meant to be the end all of boa keepers caresheets.

Properly maintaining your new boa in captivity

Well you have just purchased your boa constrictor and now you need to know how to properly care for it. These are a few guide lines that will help you to give your boa the best possible life it can have in captivity.

Housing: The first thing you need to consider before you even buy a snake of any kind is where will you keep the snake and where the cage will be located. There are many types and brands of cages available for keeping boas in. VisionCages, Animal Plastics, and Boaphile Plastics are some of the best made and are built specifically for housing snakes. Aquariums can make adequate homes, but tend to be harder to heat and don’t usually hold humidity well due to the use of screen tops. Your snakes home should have at least 2 hides. One on the warm side and one on the cool side. This will give your snake someplace to feel secure when seeking different temperature levels. Cage ”furniture”, IE. Limbs, rocks etc. , is good and gives the snake someplace to climb and perch on. But remember that everything that you keep in the cage will need to be cleaned each time the cage is cleaned. Cleaning should take place each and every time that the snake defecates. Not doing so can cause fungal and bacterial growth that can make your snake sick and or kill it. Proper bedding or substrate that can be used is, but not limited to, aspen shavings, cypress mulch and news paper. Boas should never be kept on cedar or pine shavings as these have chemicals in them that can irritate both the skin and respiratory system of the snake. A proper water bowl should be provided that will allow the snake to soak if it wants to. This may not be practical when the snake gets over 4-5ft. though. The water should be changed each day so that the snake always has fresh drinking water. Would you drink that glass of water that has been sitting on the counter for 24 hours?

Location of the cage is almost as important as the cage itself. The cage should be located in an area with little to no traffic so that your boa will not get stressed out by the daily noise and movement of your household, and you will see more of him/her this way. Also try to keep the cage out of direct flow of any air vents so that the cage is not getting unduly cooled or heated.

Temps, humidity and light : It is very important that your snake be kept at proper temperature and humidity levels to insure it’s health. You will need something to heat your cage and there are numerous commercially available items to do this with. They include, heat tape, heat cable, undertank heat mats, ceramic heat emitters and basking lights. Your boa will require a basking area of 88-90 degrees at the warm end of the cage. The cooler end should range at 78-80 degrees and should never be below 75 degrees. There are exceptions to this during the breeding season but that is another subject and is only needed if your are planning on breeding your boa.

Humidity levels should stay in the 60% to 75% range. It can range up to 90% during shedding periods to facilitate proper shedding. Too much humidity or wet cages can cause problems such as scale rot and fungus so don’t soak the cage.

Your boa will need a proper light schedule. 14 hour days and 10 hour nights work well and will give your boa time to cruise during the night. 24 hour light can stress your boa and can cause aggression and feeding problems.

Feeding: Neonate’s will need a good steady feeding schedule in order to allow for proper growth. If you do not want a snake that will reach lengths of up to 8ft. then you should look at other species for a pet instead of trying to keep your snake smaller by giving it less frequent or undersized food items. While your boa is young (under 2 years) it should be given a weekly feeding of a prey item that is approximately the diameter of the largest diameter of the boa’s body. More than one prey item may be needed to satisfy your boas needs at each feeding though. The following rates of feed are a good guide, but not always the rule and should be adjusted as needed to fit your particular boas needs.

18”- 24” 1-2 fuzzie rats every 5-7 days

24”- 32” 1 rat pup every 5-7 days

32”- 38” 1-2 small rats every 7 days

38”- 44” 1 medium rat every 7 days

44”- 50” 1 large rat every 2 weeks

50” and above should be fed an appropriate meal every 2 weeks depending upon the the length and girth of the snake.

Please do not try to overfeed or ”Power feed” your snake in the attempt to make it gain size faster as this can cause many physiological problems.

These boas have been started on frozen thawed rats so live prey should never need to be offered. Live prey can be very dangerous to your snake and can actually kill or permanently damage your snake and so should never be offered.

This guide should get you and your snake started off on the right foot. There are many other things that you will need to learn about your boa’s care over the years of it’s life. These questions can be found on the internet at the following sites>

www.thealbinoboa.com

www.redtailboa.net

www.faunaclassifieds.com

And many other internet sites dedicated to proper reptile husbandry. Any other questions you may have can also be answered by e-mailing me at:

david@thealbinoboa.com

Thank you,

David Button

I have noticed on some other forums that there is a lot of conteversy over copyrights to caresheets. I just wanted to make it clear that all the information that is in my caresheet, althought some information may be simular to other caresheets, came from my own brain and my 30 years of keeping snakes. I have not copied from anyone elses caresheets since I have my own opinions on how boas should be cared for so it would be pointless to use somebody elses ideas of how things should be done.

David

toker · #2 (**permalink**) 02-18-2005, 09:00 PM

looks good, but I would suggest adding something else to the Housing...

You already have "Also try to keep the cage out of direct flow of any air vents so that the cage is not getting unduly cooled or heated."

I would add direct sunlight. I can just see someone wanting to put their cage in the window for all to see or to give the little bugger some sun.

lethargiic · #3 (**permalink**) 02-18-2005, 09:25 PM

you should also put on there...

If you feel that you can not meet the requirements to care for a new boa, then don't waste my time and DO NOT buy one. All criteria in this caresheet must be met and I will hunt you down if I find out you can not care for the animal

i think that will make people who dont know squat think twice before jumping in head first.... lmao

Dbutton · #4 (**permalink**) 02-18-2005, 11:56 PM

Toker,
Thanks for the extra tip. I will add that to the section on housing. That was a good catch and I had forgotten about that.

Lethargic,
I don't think I will add that in. I am trying to get these people to give me money for my boas and that part may not be conducent to good sales, but I will kind of hint about it after I get the money in my hands.LOL!

David

louise · #5 (**permalink**) 02-19-2005, 12:20 AM

i think it is great that you are handing out care sheets to people. why cant everyone care that much?

bpkid · #6 (**permalink**) 02-19-2005, 12:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by louise

i think it is great that you are handing out care sheets to people. why cant everyone care that much?

Exactly,I know who I'm buying my boa from...

Dbutton · #7 (**permalink**) 02-19-2005, 04:34 AM

Well thanks Louise and bpkid, I would be glad to sell you one.
I figured that the least I could do for my babies is to give their new owners some proper information about their care. And if the buyer already has boas I will still give him or her one. Who knows, I may help to make the life of another boa better too.

David

louise · #8 (**permalink**) 02-19-2005, 05:33 AM

Quote:

I may help to make the life of another boa better too.

i really like you. much respect for you.

Dbutton · #9 (**permalink**) 02-20-2005, 03:34 AM

Ok folks, here is what I believe to be the finished product. I add a couple more things about humidity and the part about not having the cage in direct sunlight such as in front of a window. What do you think?

Properly maintaining your new boa in captivity

Well you have just purchased your boa constrictor and now you need to know how to properly care for it. These are a few guide lines that will help you to give your boa the best possible life it can have in captivity.

Housing: The first thing you need to consider before you even buy a snake of any kind is where will you keep the snake and where the cage will be located. There are many types and brands of cages available for keeping boas in. VisionCages, Animal Plastics, and Boaphile Plastics are some of the best made and are built specifically for housing snakes. Aquariums can make adequate homes, but tend to be harder to heat and don’t usually hold humidity well due to the use of screen tops. Your snakes home should have at least 2 hides. One on the warm side and one on the cool side. This will give your snake someplace to feel secure when seeking different temperature levels. Cage ”furniture”, IE. Limbs, rocks etc. , is good and gives the snake someplace to climb and perch on. But remember that everything that you keep in the cage will need to be cleaned each time the cage is cleaned. Cleaning should take place each and every time that the snake defecates. Not doing so can cause fungal and bacterial growth that can make your snake sick and or kill it. Proper bedding or substrate that can be used is, but not limited to, aspen shavings, cypress mulch and news paper. Boas should never be kept on cedar or pine shavings as these have chemicals in them that can irritate both the skin and respiratory system of the snake. A proper water bowl should be provided that will allow the snake to soak if it wants to. This may not be practical when the snake gets over 4-5ft. though. The water should be changed each day so that the snake always has fresh drinking water. Would you drink that glass of water that has been sitting on the counter for 24 hours?
Location of the cage is almost as important as the cage itself. The cage should be located in an area with little to no traffic so that your boa will not get stressed out by the daily noise and movement of your household, and you will see more of him/her this way. Also try to keep the cage out of direct flow of any air vents or direct sunlight such as in front of windows so that the cage is not getting unduly cooled or heated.

Temps, humidity and light : It is very important that your snake be kept at proper temperature and humidity levels to insure it’s health. You will need something to heat your cage and there are numerous commercially available items to do this with. They include, heat tape, heat cable, undertank heat mats, ceramic heat emitters and basking lights. Your boa will require a basking area of 88-90 degrees at the warm end of the cage. The cooler end should range at 78-80 degrees and should never be below 75 degrees. There are exceptions to this during the breeding season but that is another subject and is only needed if your are planning on breeding your boa.
Humidity levels should stay in the 60% to 75% range. It can range up to 90% during shedding periods to facilitate proper shedding. Daily misting of the cage will help to maintain the proper levels. Too much humidity or wet cages can cause problems such as scale rot and fungus so don’t soak the cage. The use of cypress mulch as a substrate will also help. It holds moisture well but is mold and mildew resistant. Buying a hygrometer (humidity gauge) will help you to monitor the proper levels. They are available at most pet stores.
Your boa will need a proper light schedule. 14 hour days and 10 hour nights work well and will give your boa time to cruise during the night. 24 hour light can stress your boa and can cause aggression and feeding problems.

Feeding: Neonate’s will need a good steady feeding schedule in order to allow for proper growth. If you do not want a snake that will reach lengths of up to 8ft. then you should look at other species for a pet instead of trying to keep your snake smaller by giving it less frequent or undersized food items. While your boa is young (under 2 years) it should be given a weekly feeding of a prey item that is approximately the diameter of the largest diameter of the boa’s body. More than one prey item may be needed to satisfy your boas needs at each feeding though. The following rates of feed are a good guide, but not always the rule and should be adjusted as needed to fit your particular boas needs.
18”- 24” 1-2 fuzzy rats every 5-7 days
24”- 32” 1 rat pup every 5-7 days
32”- 38” 1-2 small rats every 7 days
38”- 44” 1 medium rat every 7 days
44”- 50” 1 large rat every 2 weeks
50” and above should be fed an appropriate meal every 2 weeks depending upon the the length and girth of the snake.
Please do not try to overfeed or ”Power feed” your snake in the attempt to make it gain size faster as this can cause many physiological problems.
These boas have been started on frozen thawed rats so live prey should never need to be offered. Live prey can be very dangerous to your snake and can actually kill or permanently damage your snake and so should never be offered.

This guide should get you and your snake started off on the right foot. There are many other things that you will need to learn about your boa’s care over the years of it’s life. These questions can be found on the internet at the following sites>

www.thealbinoboa.com
www.redtailboa.net
www.faunaclassifieds.com

And many other internet sites dedicated to proper reptile husbandry.

Thank you,
David Button

JuliusSqueezer · #10 (**permalink**) 02-20-2005, 02:59 PM

Care sheets are never a finished product...We are so far in the dark ages still on animal husbandry...Everytime we think we have it all right, new products (some that work and some that don't work) come to light. New diseases or health precautions...or findings that what we have been doing all along would be better if...

But anyway it looks good. I think you need to go into heating a bit more though. You gave them some temps but not what to use to get the temps and where to put the light and uth...or "gulp...cringe...duck.."...hotrock lol. NO HOTROCKS should be in neon on any caresheet. Also, while your big fat robust babies can probably handle fuzzy rats with no problem...People may still refer to this caresheet for snakes they got elsewhere so ...pink rats should be included. And there are a rare few that starting out will only eat hopper mice for a while and will not touch a rat of any kind under any circumstances.... Not often but it happens. I've even had a couple of premies that had to be started out on fuzzy mice....but I wouldn't add that to a care sheet. because anyone selling premies that are still on fuzzy mice should be shot in the noggin.

Dbutton · #11 (**permalink**) 02-20-2005, 04:32 PM

OK, I made my corrections and additions. This should be it. I am trying to keep it to just 2 pages and I will also talk to each buyer about joining a reptile forum so that they can gain more knowledge as their snake grows up.

Properly maintaining your new boa in captivity

Well you have just purchased your boa constrictor and now you need to know how to properly care for it. These are a few guide lines that will help you to give your boa the best possible life it can have in captivity.

Housing: The first thing you need to consider before you even buy a snake of any kind is where will you keep the snake and where the cage will be located. There are many types and brands of cages available for keeping boas in. VisionCages, Animal Plastics, and Boaphile Plastics are some of the best made and are built specifically for housing snakes. Aquariums can make adequate homes, but tend to be harder to heat and don’t usually hold humidity well due to the use of screen tops. Your snakes home should have at least 2 hides. One on the warm side and one on the cool side. This will give your snake someplace to feel secure when seeking different temperature levels. Cage ”furniture”, IE. Limbs, rocks etc. , is good and gives the snake someplace to climb and perch on. But remember that everything that you keep in the cage will need to be cleaned each time the cage is cleaned. Cleaning should take place each and every time that the snake defecates. Not doing so can cause fungal and bacterial growth that can make your snake sick and or kill it. Proper bedding or substrate that can be used is, but not limited to, aspen shavings, cypress mulch and news paper. Boas should never be kept on cedar or pine shavings as these have chemicals in them that can irritate both the skin and respiratory system of the snake. A proper water bowl should be provided that will allow the snake to soak if it wants to. This may not be practical when the snake gets over 4-5ft. though. The water should be changed each day so that the snake always has fresh drinking water. Would you drink that glass of water that has been sitting on the counter for 24 hours?

Location of the cage is almost as important as the cage itself. The cage should be located in an area with little to no traffic so that your boa will not get stressed out by the daily noise and movement of your household, and you will see more of him/her this way. Also try to keep the cage out of direct flow of any air vents or direct sunlight such as in front of windows so that the cage is not getting unduly cooled or heated.

Temps, humidity and light : It is very important that your snake be kept at proper temperature and humidity levels to insure it’s health. You will need something to heat your cage and there are numerous commercially available items to do this with. They include, heat tape, heat cable, undertank heat mats, ceramic heat emitters and basking lights. NEVER USE heat rocks as they are not made for snakes and can cause severe burns. Your boa will require a basking area of 88-90 degrees at the warm end of the cage. The cooler end should range at 78-80 degrees and should never be below 75 degrees. You should place the heat source at one end of the cage only so that there can be a proper heat gradient between the warm and cool sides. There are exceptions to this during the breeding season but that is another subject and is only needed if you are planning on breeding your boa.

Humidity levels should stay in the 60% to 75% range. It can range up to 90% during shedding periods to facilitate proper shedding. Daily misting of the cage will help to maintain the proper levels. Too much humidity or wet cages can cause problems such as scale rot and fungus so don’t soak the cage. The use of cypress mulch as a substrate will also help. It holds moisture well and is mold and mildew resistant. Buying a hygrometer (humidity gauge) will help you to monitor the proper levels. They are available at most pet stores.

Your boa will need a proper light schedule. 14 hour days and 10 hour nights work well and will give your boa time to cruise during the night. 24 hour light can stress your boa and can cause aggression and feeding problems.

Feeding: Neonate’s will need a good steady feeding schedule in order to allow for proper growth. If you do not want a snake that will reach lengths of up to 8ft. then you should look at other species for a pet instead of trying to keep your snake smaller by giving it less frequent or undersized food items. While your boa is young (under 2 years) it should be given a weekly feeding of a prey item that is approximately the diameter of the largest diameter of the boa’s body. More than one prey item may be needed to satisfy your boas needs at each feeding though. The following rates of feed are a good guide, but not always the rule and should be adjusted as needed to fit your particular boas needs.

18”- 24” 1-2 pink or fuzzy rats every 5-7 days

24”- 32” 1 rat pup every 5-7 days

32”- 38” 1-2 small rats every 7 days

38”- 44” 1 medium rat every 7 days

44”- 50” 1 large rat every 2 weeks

50” and above should be fed an appropriate meal every 2 weeks depending upon the the length and girth of the snake.

Please do not try to overfeed or ”Power feed” your snake in the attempt to make it gain size faster as this can cause many physiological problems.

These boas have been started on frozen thawed rats so live prey should never need to be offered. Live prey can be very dangerous to your snake and can actually kill or permanently damage your snake and so should never be offered.

This guide should get you and your snake started off on the right foot. There are many other things that you will need to learn about your boa’s care over the years of it’s life. These questions can be found on the internet at the following sites>

www.thealbinoboa.com

www.redtailboa.net

www.faunaclassifieds.com

And many other internet sites dedicated to proper reptile husbandry.

Thank you,

David Button

JuliusSqueezer · #12 (**permalink**) 02-20-2005, 04:40 PM

cool! Glad you put the links...I was thinking about that after I posted. It's good to give them a place to come to for help because God knows, there are a multitude of things that can go wrong or things that are actually right but look wrong to novice keepers...like Help! My snake's eyes are blue!....You can't cover everything in a care sheet. Any attempt to do so will become a book and a lot gets lost due to humans normally only retaining about 25% or less of what they read....especially when it's a lot to read. Good stuff man! It looks good enough to me now...good enough that I may actually print and hand it out and save myself some typing lol. Sue me if you want to. My exwife already got all the good stuff anyway. lol

louise · #13 (**permalink**) 02-20-2005, 04:46 PM

i think it is just great that he took the time to do all this. if everyone cared that much......

Dbutton · #14 (**permalink**) 02-20-2005, 04:52 PM

Oh yea, I had those links in there on the first draft. I am a firm believer in the use of forums for prople who need help.

Feel free to copy this care sheet and use it if you want. I don't mind at all and it is actually kind of flattering to be honest. Thanks again for the help too.

David

CC · #15 (**permalink**) 02-20-2005, 07:07 PM

You could also add your phone # to it. Some of the people might not have internet.

louise · #16 (**permalink**) 02-20-2005, 08:26 PM

lmao. maybe you should just keep them all and save yourself a world of grief! you have enough tree space

Dbutton · #17 (**permalink**) 02-20-2005, 08:44 PM

Actually I do have my name, phone number, e-mail address and website address at the top of the care sheet. I just didn't paste that part on here because I already knew that information was right. LOL.
And I don't want to keep them all. I have 4 holdbacks and that is enough. I am getting a hypo salmon female and an albino male with the money from these babies. So if I dont' sell them i can't get the new ones. Believe me when I say that the best looking 2.2 babies are right here and will be staying right here.

David

louise · #18 (**permalink**) 02-20-2005, 08:46 PM

i just seen this and it reminded me of you trying to sell your boas. roflmao

http://www.aclu.org/pizza/images/screen.swf

ann0306 · #19 (**permalink**) 02-20-2005, 09:05 PM

LOL Louise!

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