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Attention Rtb
09-20-2008 07:15 AM
Today 09:11 AM
30 Replies, 519 Views
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09-06-2002, 06:10 PM
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73891
Yesterday, I acquired a ball python from my brother-in-law. He is going through a divorce and his son can no longer care for the little guy. Long story short, I made a great vivarium for him, but it is made out of wood. He is very active, and loves to climb all over every inch of the viv. I have a heating light fixture in the viv, but I have to turn it off when he gets active so he doesn't burn himself. What other heating options do I have that I can use in a WOOD vivarium that won't burn him, or burn my house down?
Here is my current set up:
3x3x4 Wood Viv with a glass front, and a wooden hinge top access door.
Repti-bark Substrate
Clamp Light with a 75 W Heating bulb
Plenty of hides
Nice big grape vine
**Can I use a heating rock but cover it with substrate so it doesn't burn him? Is this too risky for fire safety?
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09-06-2002, 06:18 PM
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73895
is the top solid wood?
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09-06-2002, 06:19 PM
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73896
Dont use a heat rock...for anything. I am assuming that the clamp lamp is inside the viv? If that is the cas you need to get it out of there, personally what I would do is either look into using radiant heat panels (RHP's) or I would (using a drill a jig saw and a router) cut a hole in the top of the cage and replace it with hardware cloth, and put the heat lamp on top of this. If I have assumed wrong and the light is out side of the cage you dont have to turn it off, as long as the sanke can't come in direct contact with the bulb it should be ok.
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09-06-2002, 06:20 PM
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73897
Yes, the entire cage is solid oak except for the front glass panel.....help!!
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09-06-2002, 06:22 PM
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73899
Yes, as of now, the light is OFF, but it is inside the cage. How about if I get a screen top and put the light on top of that...........will that still generate enough heat from 2' high?
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09-07-2002, 12:14 AM
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73958
This is how I got mine working. I used the bottom section of my entertainment center so of course all wood and glass doors on the front. Since I didn't want to put any holes in the top of the cage (because tv sets there) I had to use some common since. I don't like the little cages that they put around the lights inside a cage because I have personally gotten burnt on one. Do you have a Lowes around? If you do, go to the pluming section where the sprinkler parts are and there is a heavy 8" PVC cage called an "atrium cover" it has slats about 1/2 inch wide all the way around. It is to keep leaves and stuff from going down a drain. Anyway. I put a couple of holes in the sides (where it would have had a piece of pipe) and then just bolted it up over the light fixture. The whole thing cost me about 6.00 not including the light. I have VERY sensitive hands and I can hold my hand there all day and it will not burn but my 4x2x2 cage is too hot unless I use a dimmer. I will try to get my camera to work and post pics if I can.
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09-07-2002, 12:30 AM
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73964
you could cut a series of holes about the size of the clamp lamp in the top, then use metal screen over it. then just make sure you get a bulb of high enough wattage.
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09-07-2002, 12:51 AM
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73966
You could also try to just clip the heat lamp so that it will shine through the glass but I don't think you will get very much heat that way. Has anyone else tried that?
I don't like having to go to a bigger bulb because it seems like a waste to heat the house that you are trying to cool in the summer. But if you can't do it any other way you may have to get a bigger bulb because I've noticed that when I put the lamp on top, the heat tended to go UP and out of the cage.
PS. You still may want to think about vents also if it is all enclosed. [img]modules/Forum/images/smiles/icon_wink.gif[/img]
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09-07-2002, 01:59 AM
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73971
MajorLunitik
your lamp will generate enough heat from 2', that is how I have my 4'by2'by2' wood cage, and the temps are great, I use a regular 60watt bulb in my lamp. Just test it out with different watts and see what works for you. Just cut a hole is the top and add some screen, if you need info just email me, I would be glad to help. You can also see picture of my cage at the website below.
ace_of_death_777@yahoo.com
http://www.geocities.com/ace_of_death_777/pets.html
Ace
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09-07-2002, 04:37 AM
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73981
I finally got a picture of what I was talking about with the light. The small holes around the top of the collar I did with a dremmel tool. They were not really needed but it seems to let more heat out that way. Like I said, It will not get hot enough to burn even on full power but it will bring the cage up to about 95 if I don't use a dimmer. 
Here is the link if the pic does not work.
http://www.geocities.com/dlamphere2002/pets.html
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09-07-2002, 04:37 AM
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73982
I just noticed you said you have to turn the heat lamp off when he gets active. This sounds pretty dangerous to me. Snakes will burn themselves given the opportunity to. They don't have a reaction like mammals. They don't even realize they are being burned til it's far too late. I promise there is no way in #$%^$%^$%^$%^& you can keep an eye on your animal long enough to keep him from being burnt by his lamp, especially if he is as active as you say. I know you are working to solve the problem asap but I would reccomend making his lamp inaccessible IMMEDIATELY. It's just my opinion, but a slightly lower temperature is not as great a risk to your animal as the risk of being burned....at least in the short term.
Eric
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09-07-2002, 05:35 AM
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73985
Major, you also might look into trying heat tape under the enclosure. From what i saw in another post of similar nature here on RTB, the wood shouldn't present an obstacle to the heat or hazard to your home.
Also, be careful of where you put wire screens and how much you use - Snakes tend to rub their noses on them trying to find a way to get out and explore, and that can cause a nasty sore on the nose.
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09-07-2002, 03:41 PM
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74000
This is a copy of an email I got from the Bean Farm after emailing them about using flexwatt with a wood cage. THought it might be of interest here.
You are right in using it inside the cage with wood enclosures. The 11" was
first used as a soil warmer for seed germination so it can handle some
moisture. The one this is to keep the connectors on the outside of the
cage. I do this by cutting a slot out of the side of the cage (blade width
is all you need) and sliding the tape in. I also make sure I cover the end
very well that is not connected to the clip sets. Covering it with
something is also a good idea. Putting it on the outside will not work with
wood and could be a fire hazard.
At 01:49 PM 9/1/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>I've been building some new wood cages for my boas and ball pythons, and I
>have been using
>flexwatt inside the cage. I've had a few people express concerns with
>using it this way. They've
>said that flexwatt should not get wet, or it could overheat or short out.
>Are they right? Should I
>change the way I'm using it? Could I just cover it with a layer of contact
>paper or other moisture
>proof material? I really like the low cost and ease of use, but if I'm
>taking chances, I'll change
>how I'm using it. Someone suggested putting it on the outside of the cage,
>but since they're wood,
>will that work? Any other suggestions? I appreciate your help!
>Shannon Hammond
>
>
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09-07-2002, 07:31 PM
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74004
Thanks for all of the replies. What I did was this:
I cut out half of the wooden door on the top of the cage, replaced it with a metal screen mesh and hinged them. Now the top access door is half wood, and the other half metal screen, and I have put my heat lamp on top of the mesh. It works perfectly [img]modules/Forum/images/smiles/icon_smile.gif[/img]
Thanks again.
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09-07-2002, 07:36 PM
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