Background
The Emperor Scorpion is a very large, impressive, and hardy scorpion from humid tropical areas in Western Africa. Most Emperor Scorpions offered in the pet trade are black, though dark brown and dark olive colour specimens also pop up from time to time. The normal maximum size of these scorpions is 6 – 7 inches though there have been some individuals reported that have achieved slightly over 8 inches in length. With the proper care they may be expected to live for 5 – 8 years.
Before I go any further I would like to point out that these scorpions do have a stinger (telson). While they are hesitant to use it and the result is generally no more severe than that of a bee
anyone that suffers severe allergic reactions to any insect bite or sting should avoid these animals at all costs.
If you purchase an Emperor Scorpion from a pet store I would suggest selecting one with a wide full body and thick tail. These are generally females and have a longer life span than males. NEVER select one that is totally lethargic or one that is running around the enclosure with its claws (pedipalpal chelae) held high over their bodies. Both are symptoms of health problems and scorpions that display these symptoms seldom survive long after purchase.
As with any arachnid handling is not recommended. Beyond the fact that they have they ability to sting repeatedly causing a great deal of pain their most popular weapon are their claws (Pedipalpal chelae) with which they can and will deliver a severe pinch.
PLEASE remember any time you attempt to handle your scorpion you are putting its life in danger.
Housing
The absolute minimum size enclosure for one of these beautiful creatures would be an enclosure measuring 12X12X12 inches (30X30X30 cm) however larger is better which is why I recommend a 10 gallon aquarium.
What ever enclosure you choose you will need a tight fitting semi ventilated lid. Most standard aquarium lids will work sufficiently if the cutouts for filters etc are replaced with screen wire.
Some people speak about housing multiple scorpions in one enclosure.
I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS DO TO THE DANGER POSED TO THE SCORPIONS. Remember arachnids do not see others of their own kind as relatives; all they see is a possible meal or a threat.
If more than one scorpion is going to be kept in a single enclosure the size of the enclosure MUST be increased proportionately to the number of scorpions kept.
For 2 Emperor Scorpions the smallest enclosure that you should use would be a 20 gallon aquarium, for 3 a 30 gallon aquarium and so on. Even with a larger enclosure you still run the risk of your scorpions killing each other.
Landscaping
As Pandinus imperator is a burrowing scorpion you need to provide a deep substrate into which they may burrow or that you can add artificial burrows into.
The method I have found most useful for making these scorpions feel at home is to first place a potted live plant into the enclosure. I prefer Pothos because of its low light requirement and ability to thrive in a humid environment but any potted plant with similar care requirements would work. This should be in a pot about 5 inches tall. The leaves of live plants will also provide great places for your scorp to hide and help to stabilize humidity levels.
In another location I spot hot glue an empty pot, of the same height, upside down. This will serve as a platform for the water dish to prevent the scorpion from burrowing under it and possibly becoming injured.
Next I add 5 inches of damp screened peat/sphagnum moss which I pack down firmly. On top of this I add a loosely packed layer of screened peat/sphagnum moss to the top of the plant pot.
At this time you can add an artificial burrow made of PVC, hollow tubes of cork or any like items which you can partially bury into the loosely packed substrate. If you would rather you could leave the digging to the scorpion you can simply place a sterilized section of tree bark at each end of the enclosure on the surface for your scorpion to hide under.
Lighting
Lighting is only required for scorpions to provide a day night cycle. This can be accomplished by placing them within the light range of a window or by the use of a low wattage incandescent bulb over one end of the enclosure. If you keep your scorpion near a window you MUST be careful that the sun does not shine directly into the enclosure this could result in the temperatures rising to unacceptable levels and the bright light will stress you scorp.
Above I specify one end of the enclosure for any artificial light source because even low wattage bulbs emit heat. The use of low wattage incandescent bulbs can prove useful in providing a temperature gradient in the enclosure.
Bright lights or those which emit UV radiation should be avoided at all cost. Both will severely stress the scorpion and can lead to eventual death. Though a scorp may look "neat" under UV light they are no fun at all once it kills them.
Temperatures & Heat
It is generally accepted that these scorpions can be kept at room temperature so no extra heat source is require. However, there is evidence that these scorpions can benefit from a temperature gradient in their enclosure (a warm end and cool end) Emperor Scorpions do best at a temperature range of 75 - 82F. Temperatures in the enclosure may be allowed to dip as low as 72F or rise as high as 90F without harm to the scorpion however sustained temperatures lower than 70F or higher than 95F can be harmful and should be avoided.
If you wish to provide a temperature gradient I suggest that you place a low wattage incandescent light bulb over one end of the enclosure. Another acceptable method of warming one end of the enclosure is through the use of a small under tank heater. If you use a
UTH you must also use a rheostat switch so you can control the heat output. The safest method of using a
UTH with arachnids is to place it on the side of the enclosure so that is mostly below the substrate level.
To ensure that you are maintaining the proper temperatures you should install a thermometer inside where it can measure the ambient air temperature. If you are creating a temperature gradient you will need to place a thermometer at each end. If you use an under tank heater it is important to use a thermometer with a probe that can be installed in the substrate to ensure you are not causing the substrate you get to hot. If your substrate is to hot your scorp will not burrow and could become ill.
Humidity
As previously mentioned these scorpions are from humid tropical areas in Western Africa. As such they require 75 – 90% humidity in their enclosure to avoid dehydration.
The use of moisture holding substrates and live plants in the enclosure will go a long way toward helping maintain the proper humidity. A daily light misting of the enclosure is also beneficial.
While higher than 90% humidity is acceptable there is no added benefit but levels lower than 70% are quite dry to these scorpions and should be avoided.
A hygrometer installed in the enclosure will help you keep track of the humidity and is strongly suggested.
Feeding
Providing food to your scorpion is the easiest part of keeping them. They will generally eat almost anything you put in front of them. Some of the food items I have offered or heard of being offered successfully include crickets, roaches, moths, mealworms, silkworms, wax worms, earthworms/night crawlers, crayfish, pinky mice, green anoles, and even day geckos.
The most common prey offered and a good dietary insect is Gut Loaded crickets. One or two Gut Loaded crickets once or twice a week is enough to maintain even the largest of these scorpions.
It is important not to over feed. These scorpions can over eat which will cause them to become obese or worse.
If you notice that you can see light spaces between the body plates of an Emperor Scorpion that is not
gravid you should withhold food until these light areas are no longer visible.
You may notice that your scorpion will leave bits and pieces of consumed prey in the enclosure. These should be removed to prevent fungal and bacterial contamination of the environment.
Note; it is not uncommon for males to refuse food as they do not eat often. If you have a mature male that refuses food remove the prey and offer it again the next week.
A couple of other reasons that Emperors refuse to eat are an approaching molt in growing scorps and an impending delivery if you have a female that is pregnant.
Water
A shallow water bowl is a must in the enclosure. When providing a water bowl care must be taken to ensure that your scorpion can not burrow under it which could cause harm to the scorpion should it fall on them trapping them below. To avoid this it is a good idea to install a platform for the water dish to set on which the scorpion cannot burrow under as previously described under "Landscaping".
The water should be changed daily.
Links of interest
Anatomy of scorpions
Gander Academy; Scorpions Resource Page
The Scorpion Files - Main Page
John E Dove
Re: Emperor Scorpion (Pandinus imperator) Care Sheet
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