|
is the uv a tube ? If so look on the tube and tell me what type of bulb it states it is. Usually tubes have it written there. Also when did you buy the bulb?
what is the wattage on the heat bulb? is it on all the time or just at night?
The following is taken from Tonsey's BD page--it is a great source for BD owners:
*******
Vegetables come in two categories, greens and veggies. Feed both categories each morning. For babies, chop all offerings finely and offer them in a wide bottle lid. Don't use a deeper dish since they must be able to see the greens or they won't go eat them. You can also clip an entire leaf to something in the cage, for them to tear bites from: if you don’t clip the leaf down, the dragons just carry it around, which funny to us but frustrating to them! Initially, babies eat more greens than veggies; increase veggies gradually. Wash all items you give them well to get rid of dirt, pesticides, mites, etc.
Some dragons take a while to learn to eat their veggies. For some hints, visit the getting 'em to eat veggies site.
Dragon lovers argue interminably about the proper ratio of insects to veggies and the best items to feed. The following are common recommendations.
First, dark green leafy vegetables (all high in calcium). Don't settle on just one: keep offering them a mix of at least 2-3 or more at a time.
use as staples:
collard greens
escarole
turnip greens
mustard greens
romaine
dandelion greens
parsley
kale
carrot tops
add for variety:
bok choi
red cabbage
endive cilantro
radicchio
Avoid except as ocassional treats:
spinach oxalic acid, which binds more calcium that it offers, actually reducing the total calcium available. Use only well dusted with RepCal.
iceburg lettuce has little food value, offering mainly water and fiber
If you and your beardie would like more variety in your greens, you can also offer any of the following: basil, Bermuda grass, chard, cilantro, clover, dycondra, endive, grape leaves, hibiscus leaves and flowers, mallow, mint, cactus pads (often available in Meiers; cut out the spines before feeding), plantain, radish tops, ruguula, rye grass, sorrel, violet leaves, watercress. As treats, dragons also readily accept edible (pesticide-free) flowers such as clover, dandelions (a real favorite), daylilies, hibiscus (another favorite, especially red), honeysuckle, lettuce flowers, lilacs, nasturtiums, pansies, rose petals, squash blossoms, violets and wild mustard.
Second, a variety of other vegetables. Variety is the operative work. Variety assures access to vitamins, minerals and other micro-nutrients, including those not yet codified by the FDA. I generally choose several veggies from the recipe below, modified from one by Melissa Kaplan that is well enough balanced for even fully vegetarian lizards such as iguanas. Her recipie calls for rabbit pellets to provide protein, and I leave pelets out of the recipie for dragons: insects fed to BDs supply plenty of protein. Do NOT feed them meat or chicken--that amount of protein can cause kidney damage.
Some veggies have a low nutrient to water/fiber content and, while they make great human diet food, should never make up the bulk of a dragon's diet. Examples are all types of sprouts (the seed uses up most of its nutrients by sprouting, and these often carry Salmonella), summer squash, zucchini, Boston and head lettuce.
Dragons will also nibble on living houseplants--including some that are poisonous, so check a plant for edibility before putting it in their cage. Edible plants include ficus, geraniums, hibiscus, petunias, pothos, violets. Some suggest putting such a plant in the cage if you have to leave your lizard while on vacation, to provide a source of living vegetable matter. Be wary of feeding them a plant fresh from the store--these plants have often been treated with systemic pesticides. "Systemic" means that the plant has taken the pesticide up internally, into its system. Washing won't remove the poison: it must "grow out", which it will do in 6-12 weeks.
recipe, modified from on originally developed by Melissa Kaplan. Note that quantities are approximate.
1/2 cup shredded green beans or lima beans (for protein)
1/2 cup shredded orange-fleshed squash, yam, sweet potato or carrot
1/2 cup vegetables chosen for variety such as bell peppers of all colors, broccoli, carrot, cauliflower, corn, kohlrabi, parsnip, peas, potatoes (cooked, plain), rice (cooked, plain), pumpkin, radishes, rutabaga, snow peas.
1/4 cup chopped or mashed fruit, such as apple (no seeds), apricots, blueberries, bananas (no skin), berries (mine LOVE raspberries), cantaloupe, figs, grapes, honeydew, kiwi, mangos, papaya, peaches, pears, plums, watermelon (no seeds).
Mix and store in the refrigerator. You can freeze the mix in ice cube trays or snack bags and defrost before feeding. However, because freezing destroys thiamin, you should lightly sprinkle defrosted items periodically with powdered thiamin, which you can get in vitamin sections of stores. Some people supplement with Brewer's yeast (NOT bread yeast, or you'll have a fermented mess).
Charts on the nutritional value of foods commonly fed to dragons are found at Bill Meer's site and at the Green Iguana Society (with food pictures as well). Also check out these links to poisonous plants, and the compendium of knowledge at Melissa Kaplan's food and feeding site.
*****
Hope this helps. Please get back to me on the lighting. It really means alot with growing babies.
|
